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I have a good old-school locksmith here that I have do my oddball stuff. He has an old short bus that is FULL of locks and lock parts. He rekeyed an old Toy pickup that I had in 5 minutes while I watched. Had a bin full of tumblers for it and just swapped them out until it was right. Cost me $10...

It comes down to a cost vs time equation at this point... how much is your time worth vs the cost of a new/used yoke? Call a local axle shop and see what they charge for a yoke, might be cheaper than shipping one to TX. Later, Joe

That's a very cool concept, I wonder if any survived or if GM scrapped them after testing. I was also rolling when they were driving the front around without the bed... that was just funny. It kind of reminds me of the MK48 only in small form. They said it would run down the highway at...

What you might want to try before you give up on it, is pulling the return line port and clean it out. If it's blocked, it can restrict flow through the pump. Later, Joe

It should have a J-Code engine since it's a 1 ton so it would be exactly the same. The problem is that it's a crapshoot on whether or not it's going to be good or not. But as a test, if you're willing to risk the work then I'd say go for it. Later, Joe

If you do need to do the IP, the one I got from Ebay from KR Services (seller kr_services) was delivered fast and was excellent with all the updates done to it. Here's a link to his store: eBay My World - kr_services Just search for a 6.2 J code pump in his store. Later, Joe

Sent you an email response to your email. The starter is probably bad and your quickest option will be to have it rebuilt. There are two places locally that can take care of it. Contact info is in the email. Later, Joe

Definitely sounds like a U-joint is dead. I'd start there. Later, Joe

An adapter kit is going to have the same face as the oil filter, so if the filter is going to leak, the adapter will as well. For the repair, I'd try JB Weld epoxy. The stick form of it should be solid enough to mold into an approximate shape so you can repair the area without having to worry...

Can you post a higher resolution version of that file? It's too small for me to read and doesn't zoom well. Thanks, Joe

The CUCV engine harness is CUCV specific, no civvy equivalent. You're either going to have to find a used one someone is parting out, or repair the one you have. I have two that are hacked up that I'm trying to repair right now. It's not that hard, but it is tedious. Later, Joe

The problem with the VIN is the D in the 5th place. Civilian trucks are a C for 2WD and K for 4WD, D is Government Contract and sometimes comes up as 'Postal Truck' because of the mail vehicles using that same code. Most insurance people aren't used to a vehicle not being in their computer...

The rear sway bar was offered in the Camper Special package starting in 1977 and was standard with dual wheel versions equipped with the Camper Special package. Later, Joe

Did you check the flexplate? It could be cracked or some of the torque converter bolts might be loose. Later, Joe

Well, are you making the truck 12 or 24V? That's the first question we need to know. Second, what application did you request when you got the alternator from O'Reilly's? That alternator will not work with the CUCV 24V system on the passenger's side, it will cause a direct short to ground and...

The trailer light plug is 'keyed' with a slot in the socket and a tab in the plug. Other than that, it takes a fair amount of pushing to get it in there as it's designed to be water tight. All military trailer plugs are the same. Later, Joe

You can remove the heater core without removing the engine compartment side of the heater box. Later, Joe

In the -34P Group 1, Section 0103 "Flywheel Assembly" Later, Joe

Question, how are your batteries hooked up? Are they hooked up: Front Neg bolted to rad support Front Pos to Rear Neg Rear Pos to firewall junction block Or are they hooked up Pos to Pos, Neg to Neg? It sound to me like your truck has been converted to 12V. Once we know what mods have been...

I'd just go to your local 'pull n pay' type junkyard and find an 80's GM 4x4 and pull one since LMC doesn't list one. You could also try GM, 15588503 is the part number Later, Joe