Search results

Hardware stores will have it with the concrete/mortar cleaners. Home Depot sells "Phosphoric Acid Cleaner" distributed by Miracle. Its also used to clean food processing equipment as a sanitizing agent. Businesses that sell to commercial food prep shops and dairies will have it. Keep in mind...

I have cleaned up all the wheels. While I did find a supplier for the studs and nuts, I was able to salvage most all of the originals. The best procedure was surprisingly simple. I used a 3100 psi pressure washer to remove loose rust and scale. The assembly was laid level on the ground, with...

I singled out the M923 last week and we took it out to help clean up a Boy Scouts of America campsite this weekend.

These are FMTV wheels. After taking the CTIS off they bolt right on.

What is your actual voltage? Have you checked it with a volt/multimeter? I ask because the gauges often do not read correctly. On my M923 the alternator has to be pushing out 32V for the gauge to touch the tick mark. I would boil my batteries trying to get the gauge to read "correctly".

On Friday I finished installing a "Delclone" 21SI alternator using the wisdom supplied in this thread. I found that no matter what RPM or load I placed on the alternator I could not get it to go above 27.5V. I called the place from which I order it, East Lake Marine Electric in Floriad, and...

Took an angle grinder with a cup brush to one of the wheels yesterday. After removing the scale/rust and applying a little oil the nuts backed off easily. The wheel itself looks to be salvageable with refinishing. The studs on this wheel studs and bolts were so rusted as to be unusable...

I managed to score 16 unused 395/85R20 tires on FMTV wheels. They were stored horizontally on pallets with no top cover, so the flanges are all rusty. Some of the studs look pretty bad. I was able to get NIB replacement flanges for super cheap, but I am having trouble finding the 5/8" studs...

Correct. They are under the valve screw. That yellow gasket is the "preformed packing" (Item P) on diagram 3-43 (Page 3-32).

I thought mine was $35 shipped as well. But, then I got an invoice for $53 showing I was charged $18 shipping and handling.

[facepalm] Why didn't I think of that? So, I called and asked the POC. He said the crosses were painted on to differentiate between trucks that had been released for auction and ones that hadn't been released for auction. It didn't matter in the end because the entire lot was released for...

On certain surplus auction sites you will see some M939 series vehicles with yellow crosses or "plus signs" spray painted on the nose of the hood. Often they will have "OK" painted in the same yellow color on the side of the hood as well. Anyone know what that means? Was it a military thing...

Yeah, I was hoping someone had come up with something other than replace it. Okay, that's what I needed to know. Thank you!

I have been searching for a couple hours now and can't come up with a TM or any discussion about repairing/fixing locking push pull hand controls that will not lock. For example, when I pull out on the engine stop handle on my Deuce it will not stay out no matter which way the handle is...

My brushed on copper spray-a-gasket held to 60 psi. I'm satisfied and will not be taking it apart to apply the "correct" sealant. . I used the spray gasket material to "rejuvenate" the gaskets as well.

I figured that out after I had already purchased the Copper Spray-a-gasket. What I did was spray it into a container and then use a small paintbrush to apply the liquid. Worked like a charm. If I had it to do over (which I really DON'T want to have to do) I would buy the stuff in a brushable...

After doing more research on MIL-S-45180 I found that it is co-listed with NSN 8030-00-656-1426. A search for NSN 8030-00-656-1426 revealed that it is none other than Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3. I already assembled using Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket. Hopefully, it will work.

I am rebuilding my injector pump and I keep seeing references to sealing compound MIL-S-45180. I have tried searching the site and nothing pops of regarding it. If I google it there are lots of products that conform to MIL-S-45180D, but nothing specifically for its "non-D" sealing compound...

Ideally, you would have the sodium acetate buffer in solution with the pyridinium chloride salt. They are both water soluble. You would take your fabric, dip it in the solution of pyridinium chloride and acetate buffer, remove the excess liquid (squeeze it out with a set of rollers), dry it...

Only if you are eating the treated canvas. In that eventuality, I suspect pyridine poisoning would be the least of your problems. The amounts being given off by treated canvas are not harmful, they just have a strong odor.