Search results

spoke with my father who is a metalurgist - he confirmed that all 3 grades are about the same - could test a bolt if i had one to give him. this means that the stock bolts are rather weak (~ grade 2) and even a grade 5 would be a major imporvement in strength. i would be pretty confident...

a barrier coating will take care of any rust issues for a LONG time. did you weld any baffles into the tanks?

porky - you included the weight of the stock deuce tank - it would be 360+610 = 970

mismatched gauge and sender is often a problem

rod with complete wrist pin? so the piston is in multiple pieces as well. perhaps you can remove an undamaged con rod bolt and send it to Atomic http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/60703-anyone-have-rod-bolt-they-could-loan-me-know-their-measurements-5.html

just a thought, but a lot of ARP's products replace bolts with studs. a reduced shank bolt doesn't provide any additional strength as the weakest point onthe bolt is in the minor diameter of the thread pitch. why not have a grade 10.9 stud or threaded rod machined then use hihg grade nuts...

is it a non-standard thread? Patracy, would you be willing to share the specs with me?

picking up my FMTV wheels with MV/T tires this week then will finish the install

i switched to electric so i may have an spare in my parts bin - will check when i get home.

from what i have seen the deuce frame has less flex than the fuso/hino/etc frame also to clear the taller engine you will need to raise up the cab. the easiest way to do this will be to cut the frame to the length of the cab and bolt it into the top of the deuce frame (consider it a...

I had my eye on that same listing - its not easy finding those 4door cabs.

in the graphic the front of the vehicle is to the right rather than the left. thus positive caster. flipping just gives a much more significant change.

the framework looks like the start of an RV - the narrow rectangle would be for a passthrough door.

yeah - I had to do a double take when looking at when i started this thread. was hard to believe.

Really dropped the ball on this one guys - finally finishing the install on these this month. I severely under estimated the time required by two little boys being born as well as the reduced mental capacity that lack of sleep causes.

already had them made just haven't installed them yet - cost was about 200 per wheel - there is a thread about them already. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/59289-6-bolt-10-bolt-wheel-adapters.html hopefully i'll finally update that thread in the next few weeks.

sounds like either something got misalign when reinstalling or the cylinder wouldn't fully retract. pull it apart and check

yes there is a simple adaptor plate that can be made for those wheels but the raised center has to be machined off. I'm using those on my deuce but with a custom 6 bolt to 10 bolt adaptor.

oh negative castor will also center the wheel and it reduces steering effort. and yes you have the idea of positive vs negative right. the better method to think of it is that the angle of the kingpin will point at the ground in front of the center of the wheel if the caster is positive and...

cardboard works just fine - plumbed properly it should be able to sweat you out