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Are you indeed getting good voltage to the solenoid? I really don't like replacing any parts, no matter how easy it may be, if they don't need to be replaced. Okay, I'm lazy.

I doubt that anything high flow would run well off the rear hydraulics. My low flow snow blower runs okay, though.

There are a few things where I've read "You must do this or that". For the most part, so far I've successfully just done it, without doing "this or that" first. Not sure the air cylinder is one of them, since I've never worked on one, but it does sound doable.

No reason to rush these things, right? Jeez, I thought I could procrastinate with the best of them, but you have me beat. Badly. Besides, why tilt the cab to check the air shift stuff? (I'm also lazy, so I tend to do things the easiest way, as long as the result is still the right way).

Everything is relative. If you're sitting somewhere along the side of the road with gelled fuel, using 911 sure beats walking. If the fuel isn't gelled, there's all kinds of other additives that will clean, lube, etc.

I used an electric fuel pump as a trouble shooting tool, for a while, on the parts SEE. But a 12 Volt that I had. Not that I remember why, but you shouldn't use the 911 unless it is an emergency (gelled fuel). If it's still in the tank, you may want to drain the tank again. Unless that only...

I haven't locked mine out in a long time, since I feel that touchy loads are better moved with the suspension working. At least on less than flat ground. But as I recall, push the clutch in and pull (or push?) the yellow button behind the passenger seat. What I don't remember is if you have to...

Is there fluid in the rear hydraulic tank?

If you need extra lifting, don't forget that a pair of Hi-Lift jacks can be used in the corner pockets. I've never tried lifting the end of a container with the backhoe, so I don't know how well that works. But I'll be moving two containers here pretty soon, and the HMMH's forklift is out of...

While I understand your quest for perfect timing, aren't there too many potential variables? Let's say that the balancer's markings aren't right on, for example. I would adjust for best performance, then take a reading for future reference, not worrying about what the number is.

You should hear air rushing in when loosening the fuel cap (after running the engine for a while) if it is plugged.

Exactly! Although I've been doing fairly well, having sold four or five vehicles, a camper, and two trailers in about a year. Still have a ways to go, though. I'd like to spend more time driving and less time on maintenance at this point. And that's with a girlfriend who has four cars, two...

Thanks, rflegal. But I have since (stupidly) downgraded to a 3500 and a regular toyhauler, so I really should sell that setup. Or at least the trailer.

Why the pessimism?? When registering my 359 Peterbilt here I said it's a motorhome. It's a typical over the road tractor with a 63-inch sleeper that I use as an RV. No problems at all.

Easier yet, pull the strainer out, either permanently or while fueling up. At least in my case there's definitely no lack of venting capacity around the nozzle with that large filler neck, but the strainer hinders the fuel flow.

Seems like you can register just about anything here in NM.

As glcaines pointed out, you can adjust the resistance with the pivot bolt. Anyway, it sounds to me that it would be cruel to the clutch to have the idle set any higher than it has to be. Again, I use the pedal to raise the rpm as needed during operation. Then again, I very rarely use the...

I must be missing something here. As long as the hand throttle doesn't turn the engine off, why does it matter? I use the regular foot pedal to vary the rpm to whatever is needed at the moment. When using the backhoe it would be a different story, as I like to set the rpm at 1,000 to 1,400 or...

You're a braver man than I am, glcaines. Not that I ever noticed that large gap, but if you really want to experience a huge gap, try driving a Daihatsu HiJet.

When/if I get around to play with the fuses - at this point only a taillight or two works, but all the useful stuff still does - I'll put some dielectric grease on there. That may not be what you had in mind, Ahab, as it's non-conductive. But that's what generally used on electrical...