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All you need to do is go to page 1 of this thread, and as peakbagger pointed out, take notes.
As I recall, there are also photos of the shifter bushing procedure.
During the breaks in the lengthy reading, I would start with checking and/or replacing all the fluids, and lubing everything.
Once...
It'd be very easy to beef any of them up with some extra material welded in at the appropriate spots, should you decide it's needed.
My palletforks.com version is still doing fine, by the way.
Well, there's your problem. That pre-existing concrete is much harder to work with than regular existing concrete.
Best, of course, is concrete that doesn't exist. That you can easily drill with almost anything.
Damn! That had to be someone really strong. I still remember fighting with mine, and that was using a tractor to lift it.
Anyway, very sorry to hear about yours. The world sure isn't what it used to be.
The potential downside to using ball valves is that they're more susceptible to breaking off. Even the small ones I use hang down by over an inch.
But I don't drive through brush, and if I did I'd put a 90 on them.
Besides, I may have to hoof it for a 1/4 mile, worst case, and grab a new...
All three drain valves are leaking slightly. I've ordered replacements from EI.
Generally you can just clean out the ones you have to stop the leakage. Or replace them with affordable ball valves.
I hope it would pay enough to replace the worn out SEE once the job is completed.
But I'd like to observe for a while...especially if attempting to pull a loaded dump trailer with the bucket. Unless it's dinky trailer.
Thanks, I saw that. But for that kind of money I'd probably make my own.
Besides, I'm now leaning towards selling the 4/94. I'm on a cleaning spree, time will tell.
Hmm, this reminds me. I bought two seats a couple of years ago (couldn't resist at $35 a piece), but haven't installed them yet.
Thanks for the inspiration, guys.