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I snapped one of those raised steering blocks off....on the street. They are junk. Crossover is the way to go.

I have custom length lines made by a local rubber product distributor that can make all kinds of different things. You might have something similar nearby. Maybe this will give you some idea of what to look for. Alaska Rubber & Supply, Inc., Alaska's Commercial Rubber Supplier

I think he miss-spoke and meant passenger head. He has it in a place that should work. Its where the fast idle switch gets its reading, ought to work in theory.

What are all the thread sizes of the T? I want to do this eventually for both coolant temp and oil pressure.

Thats what I was thinking too. When I got my truck it had bearings seized to the spindles on both sides. Got them hot with a torch then hammered them off. New bearings, races, and seals and I haven't had any problems. Proper bearing pre-load and grease packing is key, or they will burn up and fail.

Hard to say without seeing it, but I doubt its that bad. I would honestly tow it to a different shop if thats how he explained it though. Just say you are towing it back to a friends house :P

More specifically its a steering knuckle. From the driver side knuckle up you have a steering arm, a drag link, and pitman arm which is attached to the steering box, all that is what actually steers the truck. The front of both passenger and driver side knuckle is where the tie rod is bolted, it...

Left out the part where he would need to run spacers or re-center the wheels. He clearly said the rims were bent. The tires won't balance right with bent rims, you could do all that and still have death wobble till you're blue in the face.

I would ask for a very specific description of what the problem is. A complete 'knuckle assembly' doesn't make sense. What exactly on the knuckle broke? A broken knuckle would have left you in a really bad way doing 60 down the highway, like losing control of the vehicle kind of way. I think he...

Goes on from the inside IIRC. You have to push the caliper up and make sure its seated while you slide it in. They go in as one piece, don't try to put the wedge in after the retainer. You shouldn't be hammering on anything.

I don't remember if the bracket uses a manfiold bolt or not, but this method is useful for any rusted bolt. The best method for loosening manifold bolts is spraying it with PB and letting it sit for an hour or two, then running the engine to operating temp and cracking the bolts loose. I am...

Probably have a short somewhere, time to trace all the headlight wiring. I had a similar issue, turned out to be a bad headlight switch paired with a stripped turn signal wire.

All you would do is make it worse. When you decided to fix it the right way, you would be cutting that sandwhich of crap right back out. If its not all the way through the floor, grind it off, treat it with rust converter, paint it with a good sealer.

Anything with a live front axle, some form of locking or limited slip differential in one or both axles, and good tires. I would personally stay away from anything with IFS for off-road, if one of those dinky tie rods or half-shafts snap you aren't going anywhere.

I'd hate to hit any pot holes with those things, must make for a terribly stiff ride. How is it supposed to get traction? It barely has any surface area touching the ground. Not to mention the stupid 'honey combs'... the balance will go right out the window if anything gets stuck in there. But...

I've had something similar happen, driving in 4 High and braked hard enough to lock the tires. The transfer case growled and popped out of gear. The only thing we could come up with was that with a worn shift linkage the drivetrain/body flexes so much it can 'half shift' the t-case.

A lift isn't just about clearing tires to look cool. Its about articulation and fitting large tires for ground clearance. Wider tires will give a wider stance to help resist the tendency to flip over. Not driving like a moron is the biggest safety factor anyways. Anyways, don't forget to check...

Change the filter and put some Diesel 911 in the tank and see how it does. Hopefully its just a fuel issue, but did you check all the other fluids? Make sure it isn't a blown head gasket. Power Service Products, diesel fuel additives, prevent gelling, clean injectors, disperse water, boost...

CTM U-joints can be used on the street with the bronze sleeves, I'm sure ox u-joints aren't much different. Grease doesn't get 'thrown out' of u-joints. Bearing grease is kind of designed to not do that. U-joints fail because of lack of maintenance and age, its called water intrusion. The...

B-52 (Beyond 52's) (81-87 Chevy) I would stick with 52's or 56's for the amount of lift you want 64" would be a big honkin spring up front. Edit: Nevermind...thought you were talking about a front spring swap.