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I guess we assumed every car he bought was an automatic. A manual transmission would probably be just fine after a complete flush.

The only way to fix a transmission that had water in it, is to rebuild it. I can see why he exports them. Its only a matter of WHEN they fail, not an IF. Water dissolves the glue that holds friction plates together, doesn't even need to be running for it to do the damage.

Don't tell me you started it and drove somewhere without replacing every fluid in that engine. Probably could have saved the engine if it wasn't running when it submerged. Tranny was most likely doomed anyways... they never bounce back from severe water intrusion.

Theres a reason rebuilders can charge what they do....testing and calibrating IP's requires special machines. You can't just replace wearable parts and call it good, won't work.

Somebody probably messed up and must have said axles have to be de-milled before auction. Otherwise, only an idiot would drill through the housing instead of the diff cover, if they were really THAT lazy.

That doesn't sound right, even with the cover and overdrive. I can get my truck up to 16mpg highway, its 6300lbs turning 42" tires :shock: Whats your elevation?

What the **** is a fetzer valve? It kinda looks like a bracket bolt... but I would imagine it would be obvious if you were missing alternator or power steering bracket bolts. Maybe somebody dropped them at some point and couldn't find them and grabbed extra. Manifold bolts don't have the flat...

Find some loose earth and put your foot down, it will produce two ruts if its got the detroit :beer:

Good advice there... do the same thing with the blower motor. My truck was cold until I took that **** thing off.

Yup... check the differential fluid after its out too. Muddy water doesn't play nicely with axles.

Why didn't you just get a new one instead of going through all that hackjob trouble?

Mine works too.

NP208 shift pattern is not straight back. You can shift between 4 high and 2 high in park or drive just fine, but for 4 low you should be in neutral first. If its still difficult, turn the truck off in neutral and shift the t-case. Don't be gentle with the shift lever either, crank that sucker...

Huh? I can see both of them. And I know where that picture was posted originally...they were commenting on how BIG the drain and fill plugs are.

DIY case spreader: Stick a rag between the ring and pinion.

Like I said...cooler line. Sounds you got lucky, its usually ends up bad when cooler lines pop.

The engine is seized...you ran it out of oil. Sounds like you blew an oil cooler line. The only cure is a new engine. Its a pretty basic rule when out wheeling or driving anywhere really... when warning signs make themselves known (Lights, sounds, smells...anything not 'right') you PMCS the...

Borrow/rent a radiator pressure tester. I had a leak that wouldn't show up until 16PSI built up in the system. It blew back from the front of the radiator onto the firewall and looked like a heater core leak.

Could be: Shackle bushings Leaf spring bushings Sway bar bushings Tie rod ends Draglink Pitman arm Loose steering box Loose steering arm Unbalanced tires Improper castor Improper toe in/out Steering stabilizer Kingpin spring/bushing Improper wheel bearing pre-load