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Nope, I pay attention to lessons learned by others and avoid breaking things. 222$ vs. 37$ OEM mounts, you do the math.

It isn't a good idea to mix polyurethane mounts and rubber mounts. If you get the ORD kit, you have to do the poly motor mounts too. Not very cost effective :roll:

I replaced my old dented crossmember with a used one just like it. Also replaced the mounts. My m1028 uses the C style trans/t-case mounts that are sold in 2 different pieces. Check which type you have, there are a few different ones depending on your trans to t-case adapter and crossmember...

Depends on the u-joints I suppose, but you can do that yourself...no reason to pay him for at least 30 minutes of work that takes 10 minutes to do yourself with a hammer. Just ask for a retube, and to re-use everything already on it. Get a quote from somewhere else too.

Agreed, I got a front driveshaft retubed for about 60$, rear shouldn't cost much more than that.

Kinda funny, **** head couldn't get it started. Sorry to hear about the lock though.

My kingpin springs and bushing are brand new, if I was running stock tires they would probably do the trick. 42" TSL's weigh a lot more, so the knuckle needs more pre-load. Installed some shims over my kingpin spring today, no more death wobble.

Going though the same thing. First I broke the stock steering, so I upgraded to crossover with a new box, tie rod, frame brace, steering stabilizer. Still had DW, So then I replaced the kingpin springs and bushings. Still had DW, Short while after that I noticed my frame shackle bushings were...

Nope, all you really need is a BFH and some sockets you don't mind banging up or a vice. Shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes for the drive shaft. Axle u-joints are a bit more involved, and require at least a spindle nut socket and snap ring pliers to break the axle down to the knuckle and...

A cheap way of making an indestructible step that will fold back over rough terrain is a heavy duty gear chain [thumbzup]

That connector looks suspiciously like the wiring harness for dual tanks.

I can only hope...going on a 300+ mile offroad trip into Eureka in July. Welcome Alaskan... I drive a CUCV, it just doesn't look like one anymore :-)

Frame strengthening isn't hard, can do it with everything still in the truck. 3/8 steel plate and tube. The stock crossmember is removed for the new and improved one.

If it started good before its probably just air trapped in the system. If its sat for awhile you might have to crack injector lines one at a time while someone cranks it.

Unless its a D60 variation I've never heard of that has the ring gear on the opposite side, its the bottom of the axle. Look at the diff cover.

If they did stick out and you really wanted to run them...thats what fender flares are for. Might not look too bad now that I think about it.

Yup, mine is a reconstructed K30.

The NP208 is a chain driven transfer case. A 25 year old chain is probably a little stretched. You are most likely experiencing 'chain jump' which is a common sign of a chain driven transfer case on the road to failure.

The boot traps water and crud, I've always cut them off and kept the driveshaft well greased.

14 Bolt Full Floating Disc conversion Kit [thumbzup]