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another fyi, I modified the non-gear reduction strap and installed it(plus a heli coil-not fun) and haven't had anymore problems and I drive my rig alot daily. Should've done it three bolts ago...:roll::wink:

No, my M1009 is the shaggin' wagon. This will be the Stabbin' Cabin.:-P

It's a M1031 with an aluminum utility box. It's also is in great shape and for sale. Shawn.

If the floor in the cab was swept out, the interior would look new!

Here are the pics I promised. This rig has all the hardware that it came with: lights, PA/siren, spotlight, etc. No rust anywhere that I could see nor tears in the upolstery.

Found a M1010 in Canada * Now with Pics * Found a clean M1010 ambulance with all the ammenities still in working order and a wopping 12,900 miles! Has the diesel heater, air cond. siren, lights and no damage or rust. I'm now on a mission to strike a deal...wish me luck!

Just to add to this, I bought a new slip yoke and had it installed. During the installation, we discovered the driveshaft was an inch 'n a half too short. So, lengthened the shaft, new universals, new yoke no vibration!! Hope it lasts lol!

Check my link again...

I saw these in a jeep mag and checked them out. These would be killer on a CUCV. Apparently, the price point for four corners of the vehicle will be about $8000-USD......but damn! I want them! http://www.axletech.com/downloads/ATI_MotorsportBro_100308.pdf

Thanks for the replies. I found that the problem was a worn slip-yoke. One hole was some-what oblong from wear causing the u-joint to come free under load. I'm getting the drive shaft balanced as well.

My M1009 is going through cv's in my rear drive shaft rediculously fast. I replaced both the upper and lower(rear) cv last week, installed by my mechanic, and now I've blown the top one with virtually no warning. Before I replace them with a high-end part, is this something that any of you...

that's a good lookin' truck! damn. I have to say, I like your version better too. Has a pre-runner flavour. cool.

these are things that I've been told are common with 6.2's that have been turbo'ed. This comes from a friend who has been in the diesel engine repair business for 30+ years. Just thought I'd pass on his advice to me. I'm not a mechanic.

Yes they do. Tuner companies like APC carry them to replace the 194 bulbs. I paid about $9 cdn/ea. for mine. Haven't installed them yet though. IRWFO: My interior light is actually the courtesy light under the dash, just replaced by an LED bulb. Here's a few examples:

I'll take some for ya, none right now.

You raised a good point. I'll have to have a closer look. Thanks.

I have been repeatedly advised against turbocharging my 6.2, Banks kit or other due to the risk of snapping a crank or worse, cracking the block. The cost is somewhat prohibative as well, even though this seems to be a popular mod for CUCV's. It'd suck, after all that hard work of intallation...

Sounds like it's coming from your power brake servo, power-steering fluid most likely.

I did the same recently, makes a nice change though I'm going to change to LED's now that I've found some. I've put a marine red, port-side LED marker light under the dash as well for the interior light.

I had my second starter bolt 'issue' this morning. On bolt snapped off half inch in the block as per usual. This is after installing two new GM starter bolts onlt a couple of months ago. My solution is to fabricate a bracket to mate the starter to the existing mounting hole on the block and...