Search results

I think I may not be following your rules- but this document contains the pictures and specs to all of the current standard military generators. I am posting the link to a post that already contains the Handbook. Maybe someone has a good way to pull all of the data from the document to post it...

When I change or flush the coolant system I usually drain the existing, fill with water, run the engine, repeat at least one more time. Now you should only have water left in the system, drain it, close the drain valve. Only some trapped water should remain. Fill the required full strength...

You could lift the rear wheels off of the ground, rotate the wheels and check for nice and smooth rotation. Also, take the drums off and actually look at the brake shoes and the inside of the drum- try to identify a spot that looks like it may have gotten hot compared to the rest of the drum...

could be a bad ground?

FYI- power steering fluid is usually ATF, for most vehicles.....

Also for your reference, in case you didn't find it- this generator is supposed to use 2.85 gal/hr at 30kw.

Fluid level first. If good, the filter tube may have become disconnected and just sucking air.

^ agree 100%

Top to bottom Heater fuel pressure (problematic o ring here) water in fuel

from the TM: Engine exhaust smoke excessive: a. Fuel injection nozzle holders out of adjustment, dirty or defective b. Worn, broken, or stuck piston rings c. Worn valve guides or seals d. Burned valves e. Defective head gasket Several of these will also result in low compression- which it...

Uhhh these truck don't have any computers or sensors that will keep it from starting. The closest thing to a computer is the glow plug controller.

It would be about the same as if you used a 1984 C30 pickup. Your speed would be limited on the highway due to the low gearing and HP. That is a lot of weight to haul around- I am guessing that your trailer is going to add at least 2000# for a total of around 8500#. I would look at a more modern...

The fist thing I would look at the glow plug voltage- there should be around 12V at the plugs when the key is first turned on (cold engine) and the 'wait' light is on. If not voltage, start checking the relays.

Why don't you just replace the single switch with 2 switches- one switch is an On/Off toggle toggle switch, the second is a momentary push to start. It looks like it would be very easy to do and can be done with readily available off the shelf parts. See picture.

That part should be very reliable. I suppose a short as mentioned would be the likely reason for failure- an electrical overload. How did you test to determine that it is failed? It could just be a loose wire/bad connection making you think that it is failed.

I don't know what he is tapping- the tranny bolts thread into to the engine block. The bolts are common and should have been available at any auto parts store. If they put the wrong bolts in they should be warrantying their work. Please go to another shop and get a second opinion. I have seen...

Is the steering still feel jerky at times? I have heard about hoses that can collapse internally, not necessarily on CUCVs, but a collapsed hose would could a loss of fluid flow and some noise from the pump. The steering box? I never had one fail to point of causing pump noise.

I was curious if anyone has any info on retrofitting a John Deere engine into a MEP-005A? One just was on a GL auction and it has me thinking.....It looked like it belonged to the Navy if that helps.

Are you sure that you have a 24v starter and not a 12v? With the amount of work done to the truck I wonder if the wiring is anywhere close to stock. If not it will be much harder to troubleshoot. I don't understand your battery problem- if it tests good it probably is. Any chance of a video...

Not to bad, you probably will need to swap the pulley to the new pump- so you may need to borrow the puller if you don't have one. I would swap the complete unit with the tank rather than just the pump.