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Hello, The manuals are all available right here at the top of the page in the TM section, then Generators then find the Mep-005 folder. 99% of the time that problem is caused by a faulty frequency transducer mounted inside the control panel. That particular transducer is pretty much obsolete...

In simple terms, the thread is a 3/8" NPT pipe thread. If you mean it drips and makes a mess when you change the oil, a simple solution is to just screw in a 6" long piece of 3/8" black iron pipe, heat up the engine, drain the oil, remove the pipe and stick the plug back in.

For a little piece of mind, quad failure is fairly uncommon, but definitely not non-existent. 75% of the units I got over the years did not have the mod installed and I never got a bad one. ( quad winding that is ) And, to your point.... many of them had single, double and triple digits on the...

There are 2 things you can never have too much of ( well more than 2 but I don't want to get scolded here... ) Green ( or tan ) generators... and Zinc in your oil... You probably don't need the ZDDP, but it will not hurt anything, I use it quite often in anything low hour. However, now that you...

According to the breaker configuration and plug numbering there's an 8th 15A 120 outlet somewhere as well the "SAW" connection I assume ( Two 3 phase breakers at the top ) But for $4000 I think I'll pass....

Humm, you know.... I've got 3 or 4 extra AC reconnect boxes lying around ( 2 of which are partially scavenged for parts ) A drop in unit using the original plugs would be awesome... all I need to do is find the "smart guy" piece of this equation! rofl Guy, is your passport up to date? ( and...

Yup, sounds like what I would do. Install a conventional panel W/ main and a few breakers. Add some on-board courtesy outlets and a 30A twist lock ( if that's how you plan to feed your house ) Essentially you need to take the 12 wires coming out of the gen head and connect the appropriate wires...

If you mean reuse it in your single phase conversion scenario, I would say don't. You would be better off setting it up with a conventional 240V double pole breaker in my opinion.

If I was further south I'd grab both of them in a heartbeat! Not sure WHO sells them for $4000 ea. running but it's not me! $200 as-is for parts is like for free!

As I mentioned to CM131 off-line, the fact that he has a 10K AC reconnect box is not currently causing him a problem. It will lead to incorrect load meter readings, but it is not the cause of his AC voltage issue. I believe that is also being caused by something else wrong within the AC box...

I should be able to provide you with whatever you need. I have a couple spare ( partially disassembled ) parts Ac connect boxes from 002's I have all the wiring, switch breaker etc. whatever you need.

Humm, I assume you're testing at the lugs. I see masking tape on the wires at the main breaker, as well as the odd markings on the lug cover. Can you test it in 120/240 mode and test between L2 and L3, should be nothing there, but best to verify. I'd be curious if there is an incorrect...

To clean it ( and free up a stuck switch as well ) I usually loosen the nuts on the long rods that hold the switch together. Try to get cleaner in around the little cracks around the terminals as well as between segments as best you can, there's no good openings, but loosening the thru-bolts...

AG kits has it for $75 Or google it! Don't limit yourself to "MEP-005" try searching by engine application if you haven't already. "White 298"

I would try exercising the AC select switch. I think you have some dirty contacts inside. I know you initially had a problem with the switch being stuck in 1 position. I'd also try spraying some Deoxit contact cleaner into the switch through the small gaps where the terminals come out of the...

So all other 24V items on your control panel have power, correct? And you get power out when you turn the switch to crank? Do you hear the starter solenoid hidden behind the rear wall of the control panel click when you attempt to crank? Do you see or hear the starter relay in the control panel...

I tend to shoot for 1800-1900 PSI. You'll probably find that depending on the discrimination of your gage as well as differences in how fast you apply the pressure, you will get a little variation in pop pressure every time you test it, so I don't bother trying to get super accurate. Just get it...

Well, I had previously started typing you a message telling you to not worry about the SR 8515 spacer, but since you were looking at buying the kit, it comes in the Ambac rebuild kit, so I deleted that sentence! However, it is not necessary at all. It just helps hold the delivery valve in place...

You don't need that gear retainer. just the plunger guide and the seal kit. You can also buy the seals a lot cheaper if you locate individually, but the kit is easier. Other than that there's nothing else needed.

Not your fault.... I was thinking it would show up as a problem with timing, but I guess not. Usually when I see a machine displaying your symptoms I just take the pump out and open it up. That may be the only sure fire way to know. I've seen it so often lately it's just 2nd nature to pull the...