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Rather than jumping across the main battery post like that you should be able to use a small jumper wire and go from the battery post to the small trigger wire that appears to be below the shield next to the motor power wire ( the smaller black wire with the blue 1/4" Faston connector and the...

I suppose I'll add my 2cents worth of useless opinion, but if you're going to perform a periodic 100% load test / carbon clean-up, why waste the fuel and energy trying to boil water or dump heat outdoors? Why not use your existing load ( house ) and capitalize on the energy you're creating...

Understood Guy, I started a conversation with Nortonl to get things going!

Send me over a PM, I still make both the fuel and oil filter adapters. Thanks Ray.

I think you just did! ;) I have no idea what a solar setup that meets your criteria would cost, but I'd keep looking for an 003 while you sort things out. Makes perfect sense for you to have an 002 and 003, even if you end up going with solar in the long run. Too bad you're way over on the...

Matthew Verely is the right one. His Steel Soldiers name is Sewerzuk. Make sure you read post #13 above and here is a list of the small wires you need to move under the AC connection board to get the gages to work correctly. This is in addition to cutting the buss bar and adding the thick cable...

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the Aux pump has good pressure? The aux pump ( mounted under the rear cover just above the tank ) only sends from from an external tank ( wen hooked up ) to the generator's tank. Only the pump next to the radiator sends fuel to the metering pumps.

FYI, definitely make sure the throttle cable is not all the way in. You probably want it pulling the throttle lever on the side of the engine so there is about 1/4" - 3/8" space between the tip of the curved lever and the high limit screw. Definitely do as LITD mentioned to confirm fuel flow and...

Only twice have I replaced governor springs. Once it looked like someone had purposely monkeyed around with the ends of the spring, trying to rebend them for some reason. The other time the spring looked normal, but I was having the same issue. Unable to dial in the governor. Replaced the spring...

FYI, the bolt pattern is an 8 x 6.5" so anything Pre 1997 1 ton will fit. Ford Chevy or Dodge. After 97 Ford changed to a metric pattern on the F/E 250/350 But most of the chevy's and Dodge 1 tons through the mid to late 2000's at least still have the 6.5" pattern.

Do you have all the injectors bolted down tight or are they just sitting in the holes?? IF they are not bolted down fully, the arm will hit the underside of the block surface and bind the rack, you must have them almost fully down against the block for the arm to clear the underside of the...

You should be good then! It typically doesn't take very much shim thickness to get there. Glad you have timing buttons. Some are available pretty cheap ( the thinner ones no one ever needs ) but the thick ones #14+ went through the roof in price a couple years ago. It was like $10 for a thin...

Never had an issue with the steel lines, both the rubber feed and return are notorious for leaks.

I don't believe there is any such thing as a DN2W someone at Onan must have been standing on their head when they set up the stamping machine the day that tag was stamped!

You want page 136 and 137 in the -34 TM. Measure from the face of the pump mounting surface to the cam right next to the gear, subtract 1.171" and the difference is the required shim thickness. I have a bunch of new shims if you can determine what thickness you need. The shim is specific to...

Based on your current situation with electric stove, hot water and a well I agree with LITD that an 803 is your best choice. An 802 would get you by in an emergency BUT you would need to be on-site at all times to load manage things, especially with the water heater consuming almost all your...

Good work, it looks great!

About the only thing you can do is get everything serviced and ready to fire up, but crank it from the dead crank switch for a while to get oil circulating a little before you attempt to start it from the main switch.

It doesn't really matter, there's no area on the block to seal against the additional material that defines the 4 squares anyway. Go with the 4 square one, but save the open one for a rainy day incase you need another.

Humm... that doesn't really seem right to me. I've used those gaskets on both the LPW4 and LPW2 and never stacked up both gaskets. I don't think there's any openings in the block or cover that prevent either gasket from being used by itself. IIRC I used 1 gasket on one machine and the other...