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Agreed... I had one that looked like he got dropped on the leg and shattered the cast iron plate with the thread in it. My only option to repair ended up being to buy an Acme thread nut, weld it to a piece of 1/4" plate drilled and cut to size to fit into the tube and pin in place like the...

In that case you hammer action had to have done something else to "fix" a bad connection somewhere. The fuel level sensor has absolutely no ability to disconnect 24V power from the control panel, so I think you just got lucky, but perhaps only temporary.

You will find a lot of posts on here about crankcase pressure, especially on the 802 where people think they have pressure based on feeling air coming out of the oil cap or dipstick tube, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure it with a manometer because the 802 can be very deceiving. A...

Off hand I don't recall if that is a 1/4 NPT or a 3/8" NPT thread, but it's one or the other. Probably 1/4" NPT I'd bet. If you look down low under the crank pulley there is a drain plug in the bottom of the block pointing forward towards the radiator. That one is a 3/8" NPT, for comparison.

Ok, so that would mean that you had 24V DC at the panel, you just couldn't start it because the low fuel fault should have been illuminated. Were you getting a fault light when trying to start it? Also, in a low fuel scenario typically the machine would start briefly then shut down within a few...

No the issue is not the actual breaker it's the number of winds of wire going through the current transformer. The difference in winding affects the ammeter reading and the functionality of the breaker ( it's not your typical thermal style breaker ) it is possible to take 1/2 the loops of wire...

Wow! looks like something went haywire when you uploaded your pictures! Anyway, the fitting that is broken off under the water pump is simply a petcock for a water drain. It's supposed to be connected to the rubber hose that ties into the radiator drain and the coolant overflow bottle and exits...

I assume you E-stop switch is pulled out and the CB-1 circuit breaker is pushed in? If you have nothing at all, no panel lights nothing, check the shunt mounted near the right side, bottom inside the control box. Also check the CR1 diode, I think it's 2nd up from the bottom on the panel to the...

They are interchangeable but diffeerent It will physically fit but the CT has a different number of wire loops through it, so the ammeter won't read correctly. I also used to believe the AC circuit breaker was different, but recently heard that the breaker is in fact the same. So bottom line, it...

I had an uncle living in Oregon when she blew off, he sent us a glass jar full of the ash. It was the finest powder you could imagine. I can only imagine what it did to every mechanical item it found its way into!

I think the bigger issue is that you have no control over your engine speed / frequency. It doesn't matter how far off you are, something is wrong. In one of your pictures it looked like you were down against the low speed throttle stop. There is no way the engine should be at ~1950 HZ with the...

You can upgrade it to anything you'd like, its 2 simple solder connections on the back, however the holder that's there now should be plenty secure enough. You have to push in and turn it to remove the cap and when a fuse is in place the spring puts plenty of pressure on it to prevent accidental...

I'll send you over a private message. Looks like you are too new to be able to send a PM yourself.

Looks unrelated to your 802. I don't think I've ever seen anything like that anywhere in an 802 , unless it came from inside the fuel pump or something, that's one place I've never been... I usually pluck em' and chuck em' when they die, never opened one, not that I think you even can open a...

The oil light should stay off above 18 PSI, but the gage is not the determining factor and could be inaccurate. There is a pressure sensor near the gage sending unit that triggers the low oil pressure shut down. RPM should be 1800 ( 60Hz on the gage ) RPM is directly responsible for AC...

Did you notice any fault lights on while the solenoid was trying to shut it down? If there is a fault found, the relay will kill power to the solenoid to shut the machine down. The issue with the throttle knob not having any effect still points towards a governor / fuel rack / metering pump...

There is no need for a vapor barrier on an outdoor slab. In fact, some say it can cause problems outdoors by trapping moisture from rain, that makes its way through the concrete, in between the plastic and the bottom of the slab. This can supposedly deteriorate the concrete or freeze in cold...

Shouldn't have the remesh wire touching the form, it should be fully encapsulated in the concrete, 2" min away from the form, but.. this is a generator pad, not the Washington Bridge.... :ROFLMAO: ( not sure how many of you are aware of the problem with the bridge on 195 in RI ) so it will be...

I think you may have 1 pump adjusted differently than the others, causing the rack to stop short of the screw and holding the other pumps slightly open. On the rack motion, I don't think it's possible for the rack to really hang up or move slowly ( due to a sticky pump lever etc.) IF the outside...

Once you have all 4 pumps oriented correctly test it again. If you still have the same problem, loosen the jam nuts on the stop screw that the the shut off lever hits when the solenoid pushes it forward. (If the screws are in the original setting they typically have red indicating compound on...