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Rusty Stud re: Gringeltaube; ..."Considering you "always" seem to come up with some excuse about something or other" Dang, Rusty... you kinda went full-on Rosanne Barr with that comment. Seems I remember you yourself posting about a high blood pressure or heart meds imbalance you had been...

I figure I coated about 102 sq' with 8 bottles, but from what I've read, seems like many folks would've just used about 4 bottles.

I sprayed in a U-Pol Raptor Bedliner... I used a black 8-bottle kit with included spray gun from amazon ($177), a $15 can of Acid-Etch primer (my bed didn't have much rust), and a $5 in-line regulator from harbor freight (links below). I used my little 15 gal. portable compressor (4.8 CFM @90...

After the primary filter, fuel goes through a mechanical booster pump ("BP"), located on the left side of the injection pump, directly below the fuel shutoff cover. The truck will run solely on said BP, even if the in-tank pump isn't functioning at all. That's why the trucks will start up and...

Here ya go... https://www.midwestturboconnection.com/searchresults.asp?Search=5017&Submit= Have a nice weekend - MN

Take the t-bolt clamp loose that's holding the hose to the intake/compressor side of the turbo. Pull the hose off the compressor housing, push the hose out of the way, look inside and see if the wheel is black with oil. If so, rebuild. Then reach inside and see if the shaft spins smoothly and...

HOLY CRAP!!! what I see is, yes, looks like 2nd gear galled-up on the mainshaft, but then the 'ol boys pressed 2nd gear right over the 2-3 synchro sleeve keys! OUCH!!!... (only supposed to press 2nd gear about 1/4", just to form a gap between it and the sleeve, so you can grab the SLEEVE ONLY...

[I] Now I'm more curious than before... what commonly seen damage or failure is it that prompted the mod? I'd sure like to see specs and/or pics of your oil pocket mod if you have them. Thanks Gerhard.

Hey Gerhard, What effect does drilling the holes have?

I believe your question is very valid, and this practice is a carry-over from prior military training and manuals... in the military, when you got into a truck you hadn't driven for awhile (or ever) there was no way to be sure that private Snuffy didn't leave the master switch on, running the in...

Are ya sure that park brake has let totally loose, and isn't bound up a bit by a stuck cable or something, causing the shimmy?

A good shop will put together DOT compliant lines, and I believe they may even stamp them as such. In which case, absolutely they'll be as good, or better than, NOS lines, especially since they'll be put together from recently produced materials that haven't sat on a shelf for 30+years. And...

The trans needs for the internals to be disengaged from the engine, and their rotation stopped, in order to drift into 1st/rev gear without causing damage... When you first push the clutch in, even though you've disengaged the engine from the trans, your stopped, and in neutral, at that moment...

Transmission/Clutch/Seals/Gaskets and non-planned stuff... My neighbor and I got the trans dropped last Friday (thanks Daniel!) my winch setup worked well enough. Pulled the P. Plate & clutch, and ran the nasty flywheel across town to get resurfaced before the shop closed for the weekend...

In the Amazon link in posts #10 and #11, and... https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/PARKER%20FLUID%20CONNECTORS/172HD42 (min 10 ea.) http://www.lesman.com/acatalog/Parker-Hi-Duty-Brass-Fitting-172HD.html

I just checked the price on a new one... thought they were brass, but they're priced like gold ($35-$40). Hopefully eastern/C&C surplus/Boyce Equipment, etc. can help you out...

Yep, my brain went directly to flame heater line Tee... but I believe the links above may help for the injector Tee.

Complements of Frank8003... http://ph.parker.com/us/en/brass-flareless-tube-fitting-hi-duty/172hd-4-2/#tech-specifications From this thread on return line fittings... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?127786-M35a2-injector-return-line-fittings

All the injectors are the same, and they'll only fit-up one way. Especially since you just got em tuned, shouldn't make any difference which goes where. I'd suggest you anneal the copper washers that seal them to the heads before reinstall (if you haven't bought new ones). Also, a 12 gauge...

Hi, in reference to the same deuce that i am having a loss of power on, i found seepage from the right side of head. I dont think it is coming from a valve cover. At what point is it considered enough to replace the head gaskets? ... I've found that a quick spritz with Gunk Engine Brite...