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Thanks Camo. I ask because my son was driving and he forgot it was the glow plug control and push it for just a few seconds thinking it was for some of the lights. SO it's ok but not necessary?

Is it ok if the glow plugs are wired 'out of order'? I'm assuming this is more for troubleshooting the harness and that the glow plugs are all activated at the same time. Also is this diagram accurate??

While the truck is up and running is it harmful to activate the glowplugs briefly? I have a camotek controller which allows be to turn on the glow plugs any time. I'm assuming there is no lockout similar to other controllers. I understand that other controllers sometimes 'cycle' the plugs for...

Ha! I need that......... The drain plug is right there in the picture at bottom of starter. It's that round plug but it uses a phillips head bit not that crescent wrench you have. Also that fluid is for the civilian hummer. The military HMMWV uses 7218 not 7216. It's a silicate based fluid...

Thank you everyone for the help. So funny I haven't read anywhere how these can be tested in their place. Seems to me this would save a lot of trouble LOL.

Can you test glow plug while still in block? I understand they should test between 1.5 and 5 Ohms with one probe on the connector tip and the other probe on the body at the threads. I have not read whether it is ok to test them while in the block and just test off the hex portion of the body...

What's a physical secure key model? Key on the box?

I just installed camoteksystem box. Could not have been easier. It is plug and play. The glow light goes on when the button is pressed. If you don't want to drill anything you can just put the button under the dash and find and press it that way. I think he has boxes that have the button on...

Thanks for sharing this painful story. I’m not informed enough to understand how this happened. How can we prevent this?? Was it the electric fuel pump? Something about the pressure? What would you have done differently? Thanks again.

Factory 4L80 but previous owner used US Shift. Looks like US Shift harness and spliced into another harness but can only see to where it goes through the wall of the tunnel.

That’s partly what I was wondering, ie does factory harness have all the wires that go into US Shift or does US shift have additional wires that need to get run.

Didn’t think of that…….just run it up “high” and by dash. Hmmmmm

I want to use US Shift controller but put it inside a HMMWV TCM box and use the original harness that the box uses. Currently I have a US Shift controller but it is spliced into a harness. I can’t tell if it’s one from US Shift or spliced into HMMWV harness from tranny. Can I go back to...

Simple misunderstanding. I understand why Cam might have felt that way, ie no direct mention of him here until later. But I also understand Tobash that he didn't mean to exclude reference as it's clear in the linked thread the part Cam played. It's all good guys so Keep Calm and Carry On...

+1 Unless you want to build yourself get the camoteksystems. It’s is bullet proof……not literally LOL. Buy nice or Buy twice. This could not be more true regarding these boxes.

I think he was being sarcastic. I’m curious why the hate for 24V????

What I don’t understand………if you still need a dummy pulley where the compressor goes why is there two different belts, ie AC and Non-AC.

What type of water pump does the 6.5 A2 type engine take? This is serpentine belt. Looks like it’s the pump with the bolt on pulley. See link. https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/products/1677-1992-1999-chevy-gmc-hummer62l-6-5l-diesel-water-pump?_pos=1&_sid=22c64a6da&_ss=r

Why not use a pulley puller??

Are the full doors you are eventually going to do using different windows than OEM? You mentioned in the video it might be more watertight.