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I have encountered an unexpected interference between the brass fitting on the crossover tube and a water pump cover bolt. According the TM’s and GM service manual this shouldn’t be happening. I’m not sure what I’m missing. The crossover pipe bolts will not come out. I guarantee if I pull any...

Well, thoughts? I just got home and pulled the rear main cap. It was clean with no metal/dirt but I’m not the best at assessing bearing condition. The engine has obviously had fresh oil it’s whole life, no crud or buildup of any kind. I consulted two knowledgeable professionals mechanic...

https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/hi-flow-water-pumps/products/1895-1982-1993-chevy-gmc-6-2l-diesel-water-pump This should be the one you need. Didn’t have a part # so I shared the link, hope that’s okay. You would need to run the 6.2L Water Pump backing plate with the V-belt setup...

Sure, I can do that. I won’t be home for several days but I’ll try to remember to grab some photos. The inner fenders and pan are still off so you can clearly see the lines. It’s just SS braided AN line. I used the brass fittings from the block to adapt to the oil cooler flare fittings. No...

Already done, new GM part is sitting on the crank snout. My concern was the small gouges, I assume from a previous repair, that were revealed when removed the old (although it doesn’t look old” crank damper From the replies it sounds like I should be good so long as it doesn’t wobble. The crank...

Yes I understand that. Hence the reason I stated approximately a 30% increase in flow. I was replacing the pump anyway and a local place had the Melling in stock and I’ve had great luck with them in the past. I’ve got the pan off and everything cleaned. The inside of the engine looks great, no...

Sorry, can’t do rides in the C-46. Not after the Collins Foundation crash last year. That accident ruined it for everyone.

I baby this engine with no intent to turbo at this time. I regularly change fluids on either time/mileage. I’m definitely going to clean/change the CDR before cranking it up next time. I use the Diesel Power additive in every tank. Overall it runs well, if underpowered. The truck now has a...

Yes, it is a CW rotation pump for the V-belts. They are very specific when ordering.

Interesting, everyone tells me these balancers are real cause for concern. I don’t think the Fluidampr is necessary, nor does our local 6.2/6.5 builder, in fact he advises against them. He does a lot of HMMWV builds and said they generally have to replace the GM dampers every 40,000 miles or so...

Also, found it near impossible to remove the front seal. Took nearly an hour and I ended up hacking it to pieces before it finally came out. Can’t get the new one in even while tapping it with a perfectly fitting socket.

So I went and drove my truck and noticed a weird feel/noise on shutdown. Fired it back up and the crank pulley started wobbling. I’ve removed the damper and am doing front/rear seals, timing cover seal, HF water pump, HO oil pump, etc.. I purchased a new GM damper. I used the proper puller and...

Has anyone gone through the importation process for say, a Ural 375D, in 2020? I'm curious what your experience was. I have tried numerous times to contact Vermont Unimog for information on their inventory and pricing but its been many months and many emails with no response. The last website...

Thanks would be Everts Air Cargo. Fine bunch of folks. They primarily use one to move fuel out of Kenai, but they also keep a standby plane ready in Fairbanks. We work closely with them and they always help us out with parts. Their chief pilot flies our ship every now and again.

Hey everyone. This site and its members have been invaluable to me in recent months and I want to pay back the tremendous support with an offer to all members interested in aviation. I volunteer with the organization “Warriors and Warbirds” in Monroe, NC. We maintain and operate a 1944...

I've spent quite some time researching brake upgrades for my 1985 M1008 to replace the 35+ year old system. In the spring or summer I am going with new DB8 (1-ton) calipers with EBC Yellow Stuff pads and EBC coated rotors up front. In the rear I'm doing the Lugnut 4x4 GM 14-Bolt FF disc brake...

I am posting this as a cautionary tale. Might save someone some real headache and huge amount of money, or perhaps their life. I'll try to keep it short. A few months back my P/S pump took a shit at 65 mph with 12-bolt HMMWV wheels and 37" MTR's. Wasn't fun, almost didn't get it stopped before...

Happen to know where I can find that figure 8 seal tomorrow? I found them online easy enough but I need one tomorrow, not in a week.

I'm not even sure why there is RTV. There shouldn't be. The housing halves go together with a figure-8 seal and the bolts are torqued to 20 lb-ft. I'm now suspect of my unit as being "rebuilt" if they used RTV to seal a mating surface that uses a special o-ring design.

My hydraboost is ported for -08AN line inputs and -06AN return. I have a -08AN line from my P/S Pump to the Hydraboost, -08AN from the Hydraboost to the gearbox, and -06AN return lines from the hydraboost and the gearbox to a custom external resovoir. The resovoir to pump feed line is -12AN...