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Ok so if the military or mechanics in the military used a type of light sealant. I'm going to try to tighten my bolts down a bit more. If that doesn't work. I'll used some of that locktite sealant just around outoutside? And the two bolts? Very lightly.
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The plate on the outside doesn't use a gasket. It's the peice that holds the shaft and gears for pump. It is machined metal on metal. I'm afraid if I use anything it would cause it to leak more. I'll take it off and clean it again. Maybe
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So my truck runs better but now I have a seep around the plate that is on the outside of booster pump with the four screws in it. It's enough to cause a constant slow drip. Anything I can put on it to seal? It's a machined surface so it shouldn't be leaking unless it is scuffed. But it looks...
So I forgot the pictures but I took the nut off the driver's side engine mount. The two nuts off the front engine mounts and lossened the passenger side engine mount. Took off turbo intake pipe. And just lifted straight up from front engine lift Mount using a backhoe. Did not have to pull to...
The standard number on the lights themselves are Normal. 22,23,24 etc. But on the trailer wires the number tags don't correspond even with this chart. J260,J258 etc. I hope I'm just not missing something. Even dropping the letter doesn't correspond 260,258?
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What do the tail light numbers on an M1082 trailer corespond to on tail lights? J261,J260,J259,J258? 22, 24,23,21,460etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
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The problem is on these lmtv trailers the numbers are j259, j260,j261, j258 and a ground of course. They don't match up with anything. Unless I try to substitute the 2 for a 4 but that would only work for one. And the lights seem to work with different numbers off and on so it doesn't make a lot...
I'll be doing just this as soon as Big Mike sends me my booster kit!! I'll add some more pics of another truck on your post. So others can do it.
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Mine was doing that, till I bypassed FDC and man It felt like a sports truck after that. Make sure you put in a pyrometer and boost guage if you do that.
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Who here has taken out your boost pump to replace the seal without removing IP? Threads? How'd you do it? I have jacks lifts heavy machinery etc.
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I'll just pull boost pump and replace the seal on shaft and make sure I have no real wear. Anything else I should look at while IP pump is off truck?
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I have a chance to purchase a M105A2 trailer sides bows and top from Fargo ND, and need to see if anyone is heading from there to Texas. Preferably West Texas. Thanks. Or what I need to do to get them packaged to ship. Thanks
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Checking the boost pump seal Is next since I'm gaining oil again. Which tm do I need to look through? FDC bypassed, HH orings done, fuel shutoff o ring when I did HH. No flame heater. Boost pump. Do we have a thread for checking that without taking IP off? Noticed my oil pressure slowly lowering...
Ended up it was an o ring that looked new but was just a little out, letting air leak by. No everything seems to be working fine. If you mess with it enough you figure it out.
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