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If the glow plugs are wired to 12v source then you don't need the resister. The resister was designed to allow jump starting from another 24v vehicle by having the starter and glow plugs on 24v.
The tell tale is the vin as stated above and the overload spring in the rear of the M1028. What you dont see is the limited slip in the front for the M1028.
If you are lucky you can find a suburban with a Gearvendor attached to a 208 and transfer it and sell the rest of the sub. Cost can go down to nothing.
I wired the foot switch to the blackout light swithc instead of using a foot switch.
I have one on my 1028 and love it. I don't drive it enough to get a good reading on mileage but it is muck more pleasant to drive on highways. It mounts behind the trans case.
search under M1028, I'm looking for as close to $4500 as you will give. I can't get myself to go the route of the credit so she is safe from the crusher.
Ok my delema, I can no longer use my M1028 to commute because it is not economical. I know I will get lots of hate mail but it qualifies for the Feds $4500 credit for a new car. I hate to do that because the M1028 runs well and would rather sell it to someone that can use it instead of sending...
Which power block? the 12v or 24V? 12v on driver side 24v on pass. side. On the driverside, If you take the fuseable link off the 12v block and there are two connected to a single connector then you fried the links that connect to the alt. One link is for the driver side and the other is for...
My gen 2 light comes on when I exceed 60 mph and stays on until I slow down to idle and rev the engine. Anyone have any ideas? (Besides dont go faster than 60)