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Id be furious that he installed it in the first place then removed it and didnt put your old one back in. Id shut the doors and fill it to the brim with water then call the glass people and demand they fix the problem......Rust is going to be found around the window seals on these trucks. Best...
The pullys could interchange. Easy to swap. If the pullys are not your problem, the only other option I can think of is the resistor or a bad voltage regulator on the new alt.
And I would definitly go back to the other if the pully swap does not go as planned.
My light is dimly lit at idle as well, but i go by a digital volt meter telling my i have 14v on each battery. Mine also goes away at rpms. That other alt might be tired but it sounded like it was doing a decent job.
If warthog is right, and you have a smaller pully on the new alternator, it is turning faster than it is supposed to be and could be the culprit. Smaller diameter pully, faster speed. 15.23 and 14.77 volts on a battery is mighty hot, or at least it seems that way to me. Someone please correct me...
OP stated that the voltage at idle is 29.9 Volts!!! Id say you have an overcharging issue. Reference this archived thread.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/archive/index.php/t-50508.html
Edit: Just for reference, my 08 puts out around 28-28.5 at idle.
Edit Edit: Easy way for you to check to see...
Just about has to be the blackout light switch circuit. Need a wire diagram and go to chasing wires. Im not terribly familiar with that piece of the electronics
New dual group 31 battery bracket. More to come on the actual tray.
And oh yea, not like he needs it, but shoutout to doghead. He saved my bacon with a 6tmf batry vent cap. And no, thats not a spelling mistake, thats how we say it down here haha
I used a Rough Country 6 inch lift, 16.5 X 8.25 wheels from summit racing, and 37 inch hmmwv tires. All that is not terribly expensive. Only other thing i would suggest to you is do crossover steering. It is worth every penny you spend on it.
I took mine out yesterday due to the same issue. Nothing to getting it out, especially if you have an impact wrench. Took my 10 minutes to get it loose. I found a good one in a civi chevy here and I am going to use it. Only difference is the holes for the CUCV battery boxes, and I am not useing...
Mine did the same thing and would only leak if the engine was turning high RPMs. I almost guarantee that its the lower weep hole. I had a very hard time even seeing mine and even then it looked dry, but when the engine was hot and turned up, it would leak. Not a hard task to complete by...
2 possibilities. Either 1. the bulb in the dash is blown or 2. (Most likely problem) the connection for the bulb holder on the printed circuit is dirty and is not making connection. To correct either issue, pull the gauge bezel, then you will be able to pull the white dash gauge housing out of...
If you want something that wont damage the seal because it never sets up, I use 3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound. It is made to seal rubber against metal but doesnt set up. Works even if its wet.
Also, I found a great product if anyone is having trouble with a leaking back glass. It is made by 3M part number 08509 called Automotive Bedding and Glazing Compound. It comes in a caulking tube. Even after my new gasket install I had leaks. Take the tube and force the tip down inside the...
More updates. After a long trip the other day I woke up the next morning to a puddle of diesel in front of the left rear tire (I park it on an incline). You guessed it, a hole in the tank. After inspection, it appeard that the rear tank bracket had rubbed a hole in it. So I drained it by...