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My M36A2C W/W to be named WAR BOAR when camper build is finished. In fact my drawings remind me of just such a creature.

My oil pressure has for years run up to around 30 lbs. max. Is this really enough or should it be higher, especially if truck is under heavy load. For now let's assume the cooling jets are OK even if my LDT-465-1D has them, is there a way to get more oil pressure by only adjusting or shimming...

Just exactly where do you put the shim washer to increase the oil pressure. There are two springs in the external regulator. Also, about how thick does the washer need to be? Thanks for your help, Orren

You mentioned you have about 55 psi of oil pressure and I was wondering exactly how you got it so high. The best I can get is 30 psi; sure would like to get it up to what you have it not a little more. Motor is tight so there must be a way to adjust the regulator? Thanks for your help. Orren

Cranetruck: This is very helpful but do you have the same type of check for the panel fuel gauge, too? What TM might all these things be found in? Thanks for the help. Orren

I sure could use a copy of the 34P if you would be kind enough to send one. Thanks very much, Orren

Were you ever able to find drawings and specs for the HH? I intend to try to clean up guts of my old one and use it for a spare. Do you have one of the clips or know where to get one or two? Thanks for the help, Orren

Dear Dad, Very sorry to hear of your loss. He was a special guy just because he was here on Steel Soldiers. Can you describe the A/C unit some. Is it one that has the compressor that mounts on the engine or is it totally self contained and runs on 24 volts? Thanks, Orren

Your A/C ideas sound great. But, why couldn't a unit be make that is 24 Volt powered and mounts on the roof of a hard top much like the ones used on RV's. May have to have a bigger alternator, etc. but should simplify things. Seems the conventional units are to powerful and wasteful. May...

Kenny, You seemed to use the correct lapping compound to clean up the high pressure parts. What is the grit or ID number you used? Thanks, Orren

Ken, Will your Chinese contact sell parts fot the HH? May like to try to rebuild these to a point since Ambac and others are not any longer doing it. Thanks, Orren

Clinto: Tried that. Don't want to bust something since the pump is working but want to to a little PM since PSI is a little low. Do you think heating it up with a hot air blower would help? Thanks, Orren

Anybody on this thread know where I can get my HH rebuilt? Would like to have one for a spare. Thanks, Orren

How do you guys ever get the pump out? I took all the screws out, etc. but it just won't lift out. Is it possible the thing was JB Welded in? There is something built up all around the outer edge of the top flange but not on top of it and I do not know if this is original or not. Any...

Welldigger, Yes, I can use a set. Give me instruction. I use PayPal. Thanks, Orren

Thanks Tom for the info. Unfortunately, I can't even see the scribe line either with good light and a mirror. How do you know you have moved the engine 60*? Would it work if I moved the engine ahead 300* so I can use the starter to move it? Thanks for your patience.

Tom, Thanks for the reply but my problem is I can not see the red mark on the HH gear face or are you talking about some other timing pointer on the IP. If so, where is it located? I need to be able to remove the HH while IP is still mounted to engine. Thanks for the help.

Anybody got any ideas on how to remove the HH when the red mark on a gear tooth is gone? I don't know but is it possible to remove the HH if number one cylinder is top-dead-center? Hopefully so. Just a guess. Please help.

This is an interesting idea. Do you have a list of necessary parts to make this match up to transmission, motor mounts, etc. OK? Thanks for the help, Orren

Wouldn't be nice if one of the hard top manufactures made the top with visor built in? Also, side window visors are handy so rain doesn't come in when windows are cracked open a little to keep cab cooler.