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Welcome. And if there is such an attachment for the Case 580, which there likely is, it should work on a SEE. Once you run the necessary lines to feed it. If you're lucky and it'll run on the front hydraulics it'd be as easy as using the tool reel. Probably would need extension hoses, though.

My thinking was that it's a hydraulic system, not an engine, so hydraulic fluid is probably better. Not having the same logistical constraints as the military, I have no reason to try running the same oil/fluid in as many applications as possible. Been using AW-32, and probably decided on that...

Yeah, I bought a used 12-incher off an unknown model, and while it fits, it won't fold in as tightly as the original bucket.

There are readily available and very good valve stems for tractors and implements, too. Usually made from brass.

I have a couple of things working in my favor. For one, it rarely gets to 80 degrees here, and when it does I don't want to be outside in the first place. Secondly, it's not often I use the backhoe for more than an hour at a time these days. But probably most importantly, I run the engine at...

Earlier today I thought about eliminating the cooling system altogether. The MB-4/94 tunnel washer I have only have a large tank (30-something gallons) and runs a hydraulic motor, plus the other hydraulics which are similar to a backhoe. My fans really only ran when using the snow blower, and...

At first I thought you must have added a zero to those numbers, but then remembered that I have one with about 5,000 miles showing. Either way, as mentioned above, don't pay too much attention to the numbers.

All you really could need is new rubber grommets. Either way, there really is nothing special about the valve stems, so try NAPA or any other parts store.

Cheap AW-32 from NAPA. I figure that hydraulic systems prefer hydraulic fluid, and it seems to work very well.

They should still have a date code. Or are you afraid to look?

Since you have a set, how new are those tires according to the date code? I called a seller of "new" Michelins and found out that they were eight to 11 years old. In his mind, new and never used were completely interchangeable words. Sure glad I called and asked instead of falling for the very...

I don't think that overheating the brake fluid with a SEE would ever be an issue. DOT 0.3 would probably do the job just fine.

You do not want that damn thing working, Brent. It's LOUD. Okay, for oil pressure maybe, but not for the air.

I don't remember now, but did the starter work if you "screwdriver started" it?

Are you indeed getting good voltage to the solenoid? I really don't like replacing any parts, no matter how easy it may be, if they don't need to be replaced. Okay, I'm lazy.

I doubt that anything high flow would run well off the rear hydraulics. My low flow snow blower runs okay, though.

There are a few things where I've read "You must do this or that". For the most part, so far I've successfully just done it, without doing "this or that" first. Not sure the air cylinder is one of them, since I've never worked on one, but it does sound doable.

No reason to rush these things, right? Jeez, I thought I could procrastinate with the best of them, but you have me beat. Badly. Besides, why tilt the cab to check the air shift stuff? (I'm also lazy, so I tend to do things the easiest way, as long as the result is still the right way).

Everything is relative. If you're sitting somewhere along the side of the road with gelled fuel, using 911 sure beats walking. If the fuel isn't gelled, there's all kinds of other additives that will clean, lube, etc.

I used an electric fuel pump as a trouble shooting tool, for a while, on the parts SEE. But a 12 Volt that I had. Not that I remember why, but you shouldn't use the 911 unless it is an emergency (gelled fuel). If it's still in the tank, you may want to drain the tank again. Unless that only...