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if it's getting power while turned off, then either something is wired incorrectly, the switch is failed, or some other component in the electrical is failed.
About all you can do is use a multimeter on the wiring to try to figure out where the power for it to run when the switch is off is...
The boot is there to keep dust and grit away from the piston.
The part that actually seals should be a gasket/O-ring inside the caliper piston area.
It probably won't leak for now, but it should be rebuilt with a new dust boot to keep crap from getting in there and scoring the piston.
I'd love a rear winch, but between the Federal Military parts rear 2" receiver and associated braces, and not wanting to lose any ground clearance (I already lost departure angle due to the hitch) I doubt I will ever install one.
I've only ever used my front winch to recover other people, never...
If it doesn't look like the image above, then it might be an end user modification, in which case find whatever bolt fits and has a smooth head on it and go from there.
It's more about the internal brake heating up than it is the duty cycle, as with no load it isn't really going to be making a lot of heat from the wiring so much as overriding the brake friction.
I've seen several winches that were operated in reverse orientation so when pulling in the line they...
For balancing a 24V bank of 2 12V batteries, I'd recommend the balancer from Victron. All it really does is place a slight load on whichever battery is higher voltage in order to balance them out. It only does up to 1 amp, so you can't use it to draw 12V loads off of one battery and still have...
There is a fuel tank vent that comes up near the air filter intake. It's just a hose with what looks like a fuel filter sitting on the end of it.
If the fuel tank vent gets plugged it could possibly cause that.
If going through the plug, it likely doesn't have a center tap for the 12V feed, so it would NOT keep the batteries balanced.
Easy enough to do with a battery balancer though.
I'm not 100% clear on how far you disassembled, but as long as it's out of the cup portion and you can get to it all, then it should be far enough.
After soaking with the solvent and getting what you can with solvent and plastic brush, some compressed air and brake clean to get as much of the...
I'm no expert on halfshafts, but as long as there was grease in the boot, and there isn't anything that looks damaged/excessively worn, I'd put new grease, reassemble with new boots, and run them til they fail. The difference in cost between boots and shafts is more than worth the risk, and...
#1 I can't answer. I did a search for both the part number and the kit it is part of, and neither shows up anywhere as available.
#2 there should be no reason to replace them all if the rest are in good condition other than the boots. A set of boots is a lot cheaper than the shafts are.
#3...
Correct. The only real difference is the A2 has a thicker drag link. The only thing needed to use the A2 idler arm on the A1 drag link is a couple of washers to take up the extra length.
Yes, those are them. You are technically overtorqueing them compared to their rating, so a lot of people recommend you replace them every time you do anything.
Some people recommend NordLock washers instead of split ring, but that's a personal choice.
This is probably similar to the difference between cranking an engine and turning it over.
On more than one occasion I've read where someone's engine will crank but won't turn over, or will turn over but won't crank.
To me both mean the exact same thing; when you crank the motor you are...
with the replacement axles also add new bolts for the axles. More than one vehicle has gotten stuck when the halfshaft bolts backed out and sheared off.
Checking all the bolts with a torque wrench before you go will also be very beneficial.
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