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I had good experience with Feltz tire for buying surplus tires (date codes 2018 or newer guaranteed) I had a bad experience with a seller down in Texas a couple years ago that managed to screw up the first order by shipping the wrong brand of tire, then second batch 3 of the 4 had holes in the...

If you aren't going to replace them right away, at least put the ones with the cracking on the rear of the truck as they are most likely to have a failure and the rear is the safest place to have a tire failure while driving down the road. I have no problems running older tires if they are in...

I have one of their 2" receivers on my truck. Kind of spendy, but definitely heavy duty. They've been selling parts for longer than I've had my truck, and seem decent enough. Not my first choice to purchase from, but mostly seem legit.

That isn't a very high amperage circuit, so there would likely have to be something else wrong for the connectors to go bad. Sounds like it's time to break out the multimeter and figure out exactly where the issue is, rather than throwing more parts at it.

The question is, how badly do you want it to be original? All those parts you could easily use non-military parts for and end up with an easier to use trailer. If you really want it all original then it might be more cost effective to find an M116A1 or M101A1 frame to use as a parts donor.

There really isn't a huge difference between any trucks within a generational type. Pretty much all A2 trucks are the same with minor changes or just how they are set up, same as all A1 trucks or A0 trucks are basically the same except for what's bolted onto them. The 1097A2 and the 1123 are...

M1123 doesn't have the rear bumper, and all the deep water fording stuff should already be installed, where the 1097 it might or might not be. M1123 is Marine Corps only, where 1097A2 is the Army version. Basically, when the Army wanted rear bumpers on all their trucks for the A2 series, the...

my truck didn't have cloth covered lines. Not really necessary to have the cloth on them; it just makes the outside a little tougher against abrasion. Make sure they aren't rubbing on anything (most should just be hanging out in the open anyway)

If it has V-belts, it started out as an A0/A1 truck. When looking for parts in the future, you should use the M1097A1 for reference. From what I saw, the serial numbers between 570000 and 599000 are the A2 trucks, and any numbers below that or above that are A1 trucks. The only actual...

I thought it looked pretty clean myself. You really don't want to know what some of my stuff looks like around here.

Either alternator or regulator is bad. If you understand how to use a multimeter, go through the tests in the PDF I linked in my last post. That will confirm for you which item is the failed one. As I said before though, it's usually the regulator, but not always, so if you aren't familiar...

The manufacturer has a really good troubleshooting guide that will take you step through step to determine where the failure is at. 95% of the time it's the regulator. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

Okay, time for a couple more questions. Did the charging system on this truck ever work, or did you just recently acquire it and trying to sort everything out? I'm asking because something here doesn't look right. The N1225-1 alternator has an external voltage regulator bolted to the outside...

I don't recall seeing it mentioned, what alternator is in your truck? Knowing this will help us to be able to provide more specific troubleshooting, as a few things are different between the different types Use a multimeter to check voltage at the batteries. Then use the meter again at the...

I'm planning on keeping them all. I'll probably be taking off some of the buckles to use on some of my ammo can trays

funnily enough, I just bought a package of the straps last week on ebay. One end is a loop that's held down by the footman loop, and the other is a hook, with a buckle partway up...

That doesn't work so well if it's soaked in oil.

If in good condition tap on it or blow it out, but no washing.

That I don't know. The ECV/REV system has one compressor and can have either one or two condensers and evaporators (one condenser each fender, one evaporator in the dash and the second between the rear seats) The Red Dot system is sized for a single evaporator and condenser, but large enough...

There is a sanden brand compressor for the Red Dot kit, that uses a different mounting bracket and longer belt that is not in the parts book. The ECV/REV compressor should be the thinner one and mounts the same place as the delete pulley, so no change in belt length from what the book says