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It's possible, but I've never heard of a run flat moving inside the rim to block air if it worked before. Should be able to run a stiff wire through the hole with the valve assembly removed. If not then likely plugged up somehow. As long as you don't have any air pressure, you should be able...

Those batteries should do just fine. I'm running what are basically identical batteries, but NorthStar branded (same case, same posts, just a little different specs) for almost 4 years now and they are great. Yes, your truck is an M998, or possibly an M998A1, but definitely not an A2 or newer...

back in 2007 someone did a study for different additives and their effects on lubricity. It's about as unbiased as a test as you can get, and most of the additives tested are still readily available today. The Optilube XL wasn't on the list because it wasn't out yet, but it's apparently better...

personally I like Optilube XL.

The reason Red Dot aircon belts show up in searches a lot is because they are different than the stock belt. If you have a truck with factory aircon, then it should take the belt in the parts book.

Some are willing to try, but you will likely be paying them by the hour for them to figure it out. I found if you ratchet strap one side enough to give the runflat a nice curve to it, then use plenty of tire soap, it pretty much slips right in. I also take the short hook strap piece off the...

honestly, they're a pain. You torque each bolt twice, so for 4 wheels you're talking 192 clicks of the torque wrench. So twice as long to bolt together, and twice as long to take apart. Only really needed if you're running your truck heavy (over 14k lbs)

If they are installed dry, they are usually easy to remove. The rubber might harden a bit over time, but it doesn't usually stick to the frame. If they were installed with something like RTV or another sealant, you're probably going to break the glass to get them out, so better to take them off.

Most military shelters I've seen always have some way to close off vents to prevent light getting out or dust getting in. My initial impression is non-military, but I could be wrong.

The 40mm can has eyelets for locks, and the bolts holding it the tray are nylocks, and the can blocks the front radio tray bolts. It will be time consuming for someone to break in and steal from it. Mostly I need the registration out of my wallet because it takes up too much space (along with...

I was playing with the rivnut tool in preparation for going camping this coming weekend at the NorthWest Overland Rally. The ones in back will all be for recovery gear. The 50 cal cans in the cab will be snacks and hygene, and the 40mm can bolted to the radio tray will be registration and...

For Washington State it depends on what licensing office you go through, and what the exact model is. I've heard of people having issues getting M998s licensed, but there are a few of us with M1123, 1097A2, or 11XX series trucks that had little difficulty with the actual licensing process...

3 things a diesel engine needs. Fuel, compression/heat, air. you're saying there is no smoke of any type out the exhaust when cranking, that would lead me to believe either you have a fuel delivery issue, or you have a serious compression issue. The added fact that it did nothing with the...

better ones than the M1123s that had the MAK removed do.

I believe there used to be someone on here years ago with access to the serial number database for truck history, but hasn't had it for many years (or isn't here anymore, or something like that) For the rest of us, no, there really isn't any way to track the history of these trucks. The bumper...

There is no way that old terminal could make a good connection. Hopefully it didn't do any damage to the battery post when it let out the smoke. Personally (and there is debate on this) I like to use a little Noalox grease on the posts before attaching the terminals, and apply it liberally to...

smoke from a battery connection IS a bad connection. there isn't good contact between the battery post and the terminal clamp. Even though you have power flowing, when you try to crank the small amount of connection you have at the battery terminal isn't enough for the load, and so it heats up...

So someone decided to the wheels should be hub centric instead of lug centric. That's how some of the H1 wheels I've seen are (still, gotta wonder what else they did to the truck)

Have you checked fuel flow again right as it is dying/immediately after it dies? There's always the chance it's a failing fuel line or something similar causing a blockage after fuel has flowed for a bit It's probably already been mentioned, but if the vent system for the fuel tank gets plugged...

Looking in the manual, the 60 and 100 use the same mounting bracket. Only difference between the aluminum and steel that I can see has to do with either using a through bolt for the alternator pivot, or using 2 separate bolts front and rear. The 196900 split has to do with the serpentine belt...