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I used 1/8-inch, possibly 3/16...what ever I had laying around. I think 1/4-inch would be real overkill for this application, and just more work to move around. But then, with a bad back and knees, I try to keep things light.

This is as far in as it'll go with the little bucket...almost latches, but not quite. Close enough for me, though.

Now you're gonna make me look tomorrow. I don't remember if it latches or not.

Yeah, I noticed that the 12-inch bucket I installed won't tuck in as far as the stock 24-incher does. Oh well, having the out rigger stick out a bit more doesn't hurt anything - until you hit it.

Thanks, Alpine! Not where I had expected them to be, that's for sure. Easy to get to, right? I really like that.

Okay, here's a pic of the dirt simple stand I made. As you can see, one weld to make the 90 at the top and one for the jack towards the bottom. Having a jack is obviously optional, but it does make things easier and more controllable.

I'll try to remember taking a photo tomorrow, Ray.

August, I hate to tell you, but the reel is running off the front pump as I recall, which means that your brush hog better not be larger than a one or two foot diameter unit. But since you're going to run a rear mounted implement anyway, why not use the rear hydraulics instead? And sorry, but I...

If you have the patience to look it up in the SEE/HMMH/HME thread, there are photos of a simple one I made maybe a year and a half ago. It has two welds, but if not incorporating a trailer tongue jack it would've only been one.

Couldn't you modify one of the bits for the jackhammer, making it into a tamper? Should be a heck of a lot cheaper.

I have a couple of tweaked trailer tongues from doing similar things. So, no, it usually isn't good for the trailer.

I dunno. By now I'm better at the goofy Case SEE setup than with the more logical twin sticks. Takes a few seconds to get up to speed with the SEE, but up to an hour with the twin sticks. Of course, that because of a 50 to 1 usage ratio in my case.

I knew I couldn't be the only one making that mistake a few times. And that was also before I realized that there was no need to run the engine anywhere near 1,800 rpm, so things happened quickly. An OSHA inspector would freak out over a SEE, I think.

Hmm. I never thought that my clutch pedals required much force. And I have very bad knees so I'm fairly sensitive to such things.

Well, no, they don't shorten the driveshaft, but the do shorten the distance between the transfer case and pinion yoke when bent. If they also shortened the driveshaft accordingly, I wouldn't worry about it. Not that I know how much "give" there is in the 419's setup, but I have yet to see a...

My concern was the effective shortening of the driveshaft, not knowing how much travel there is available in these setups. And since it was dirt simple to straighten them, why not make it like it's supposed to be?

All Class 8 tractors I've seen work that way, a gear driven compressor feeds the dryer, then the dryer feeds the so-called wet tank, and then pressure gets distributed from it. No special purge tank, stopping the compressor, or anything like that.

Well, they could be mounted on a 4-inch wide rim, too, but should be on 10.5 to 11 inch wide rims to work as intended. For improved cornering I'd even go to a 12-inch wide rim, but not under 10.5 for basic daily driving.

Yes, that is more contact patch, but I wouldn't bet on it feeling more planted with tires that are really too wide for the rims.

That should be one problem that's easy to fix. It's not a matter of the distance between the engine and dryer that counts, it's the length of the hose between them. On my Peterbilt, which has a far more meaningful compressor, about the first four feet or so has to be a braided hose (for...