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From the opposite end of the spectrum, I got my second SEE (intended to be a parts car) directly from GP for $5,200 if memory serves me. Delivery was another $1,600 or so, and it didn't come with anything but the ripper. My first one came with all the tools, and then some, but so far I've only...

I did take a quick look around for switches today, and there are two I could try. Although, if mounted correctly they're already in the off position. Good thinking on the solenoids. I'll take a peek in that area, maybe disconnect the wire(s) for now. Unfortunately the swivels are so bad that...

Right you are. Too much going on to remember that little detail about the front pump. Anyway, it's been deadheading so far (not that I've had it running much) so it'll hopefully be fine with a bit more. That's one reason I want it back in the garage; to figure out the system. There may well be...

Finally got to use the Summer SEE again, but to dig yet another 14'x4'x10' hole (aka a grave). Getting better at it as this was number five. One outrigger didn't want to come back up (lever wouldn't move enough) and for a while the backhoe was very low on power. To the point that the other...

Perfect timing, P&P! I bought plugs for my hoses (-8 JIC if memory serves me) and installed them two days ago, so that I could dig into the swivels. In my case, not only do the swivels leak, but on this particular FLU (the only one that leaks, of course) there's no way to turn the PTO off, so...

A decent parts store should have air system anti freeze. Is it needed? I don't know. Been running on SEE without (stole the parts to put in another one) and no issues so far. Then again, last winter really wasn't one here, so it never got below 0.

It's hard to argue the dirt simple and reliable function of a lever. Besides, the switch could then be made to engage the diffs separately.

I saw that earlier, but didn't know that the glass was still intact. The only way I can think of for that to happen id by exceeding the gauge's range...by quite a bit. Let's hope it was done with compressed air, not when the gauge was installed on the tank.

I think they'd be low on power with a good header on the engine, but be that as it may; while you've been underneath servicing things, did you happen to notice if the rear track bars have forklift damage, too? Those are far more important than the exhaust, I think.

That reminds me; when you do get it running, resist the temptation to run the backhoe or loader before you clean off the exposed parts of the cylinders' rods, and lubed the seals a bit.

I would concentrate on checking/getting the engine started. That would allow finding out if the clutch, transmission. etc. works. If that all seems to function well, I'd continue with fixing the essentials, and eventually the rest. Okay, that's not entirely true. Maybe 20 years ago I would've...

Just started looking into this issue yesterday, so not up on manufacturer and such yet. But if your assembly is in good shape and at a reasonable price, I'm interested.

Hey, Speedwoble, do you happen to have the swivel couplings for the hose reel still? I have two leaky ones and trying to decide whether to replace or try to repair them.

Pic 2, most likely the wire for the useless blackout light, which may or may not still be on the loader. Pic 4, looks like that one belongs on top of the engine hour unit. Pic 6, I'd get some caps off of whatever that fits, and not worry about the wires for the sensors. Pic 9, no that's not...

Hey, we've been throwing a bit of everything in here, and it seems to work fine. Just do it. (You can blame me later if someone whines).

In your next post(s)?

Umm, the trans in the HME is different, yes, but only in that it also has the hydro drive, which I think is a bolt-on. But other than that (and the HMMH's front suspension lock-out) they seem to be the same to me as far as suspensions and transmissions go.

I seriously doubt they're different. As far as I know all three versions use the same frame. But I can check if you want.

Isn't there a Freighliner VIN, which is on a plate in the cab, and a different Unimog VIN that's stamped on the frame?

Success. It was even easy to back up without having a trailer between the tow vehicle and the con gear.