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Speaking of air systems, today I attempted to do something I've been wanting to try for years; tow an air brake equipped trailer with a SEE. Problem number one, the pintle is too large to fit a regular commercial tow ring. Fixed that with a grinder. But maybe the pintle is only good for 50,000...

At one point I thought about adding a triangle, but then thought "Why?" Not that I drive on public roads much, and no cop here would really care if I drove 10 or 50 mph with it on. Just like they don't care that I drive without one. But I think that for those that want to be legal, or close to...

I would use the lack of paperwork as a potential bargaining chip, but don't understand why you'd want a SEE registered. Put a triangle on it (if you happen to end up on a public road) and be done with it.

Couldn't you bend the levers a bit, so they clear?

I don't know the internals, either, but it's the same principle as a splitter in a 13 or 18-speed tranny in a Class 8. I, and most everybody else, split gears and shifts those without using the clutch.

Surplus Center has (had?) nice seats for about $25. I bought a pair but have yet to install them.

You may want to ask yourself how much has to work, and what you don't really need. For example, if I have working temp and oil pressure gauges, that's enough for me. Work lights front and rear can be nice, and if the wipers work. That the cooling fans work is a near must for my usage...

No, I bet you don't need a new switch. You're plenty smart enough to do without it. Just put a jumper wire in there and be done with it. Glad I could help, if it turns out to be the switch, but they're costly. At least try with a jumper before spending the money.

I have one that came with a short hose attached, the rest have just the fitting. That hose goes down, so it serves to keep water out when it rains, and I've been meaning to add short hoses to the others for that reason.

Sounds like the dumb switch on the clutch is doing its thing. I don't care if I can't use the intermediate gears, but it's nice when the switch allows me to start the engine in the first place. Try a jumper wire on the switch before digging too deep into the rest of the system. I can see...

Leaving the fuel cap a bit loose would be the easy way to check for fuel starvation due to a plugged vent. Of course, the SEE would have to be driven/worked a bit for any results to show, but isn't that what we have them for in the first place?

From a different angle than the one in post #10, or am I missing something?

Yeah, that's what I figured is what we all have. During my search for leaks I pressurized the tank through that vent fitting several times. To the point that I may have gained a bit in tank capacity in the process. Anyway, I don't think I've ever removed a vent so I took for granted that it's...

Is that in the elbow, or did you have a hose with other accoutrements attached to it? I've put compressed into the tank through the elbow a number of times.

I had bad algae (and who knows what) in a tank. Couldn't remove that one easily, but kept flushing it out. Also blew the "filter" at the pickup out numerous times with compressed air and cleaned the strainer LOTS of times. Eventually, and after using Bio Bor, it worked out fine. Each case is...

Forgot about the strainer gasket, peakbagger. That one was what kept me busy for a while, after having fixed everything else in the system. These days the FLUs fire up instantly, and some even have a bit of pressure in the tanks after sitting for months. It does make all the time spent chasing...

One of these days (years?) I'll have to look into the charging issues on my Winter SEE, which likes to overcharge (32 Volts plus), or after fiddling with the master switch only charges to 26 Volts. But in your case it sounds like you have no charging at all...which would explain why the tach...

Thanks, but no thanks. I already sold one SEE, and probably should sell another FLU.

This sad subject has been covered quite extensively in the past few years in this thread. Heck, someone (me?) started a separate thread on it. Basically, you need to eliminate all air leaks from the tank on up, and make sure the fuel can come up from the tank in the first place.

After three months of on and off progress, the FLUs can finally enjoy covered parking.