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If you haven't rebuilt your dryer do so immediately. Mine had never been serviced and it destroyed my air compressor.

If this was my truck - I would pull the pan and check the pump condition. Given this numbers and the knowledge of the change in pump design..... I would have to see for myself. Looks to be a fairly easy job.

Currently using an Amsoil heavy duty bypass filtration system: https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-bypass-system-bmk30/ But I am intrigued by the kit that Suprman has. I think I shall ask him about that one. I am a sucker for mil spec stuff. :rolleyes:

These solenoids are known for having weak coils and being unable to actuate properly. I would replace it after checking for power at full operating pressure, etc.

Check for 24v/ground at the solenoid connector. When the solenoid is de-energized it does not send air to the fan clutch - the line to the fan clutch is vented on the solenoid's vent port. It has to receive power to send air to the clutch and disengage the fan. So you may still have an...

Ok PERFECT. That's all exactly correct based on our schematics - Ronmar's even has the numbers correct that are typoed on my older diagram. We still need to verify that K1 doesn't have welded contacts though so we need to check for continuity with it out of the circuit. Pull 157 off of terminal...

Ok. Can you get a better picture of the terminals on the K1 (left relay in the picture above)? And I want you to fill out this form: Left (K1) Relay: 30: (list wire numbers) 87: " Right (K2) Relay: 30: " 87: "

Well I don't *think* it's that one but that's an interesting schematic - that looks newer than what I have as matching my truck. Also never seen these 24v "bussbars" it references. Here's the sheet data on mine (dated 08-29-2008 - the JPEG format compression has made it less readable than it is...

Questions: Need to see the wires connected to the K1 circled to the left. Picture and wire numbers. Also - where the F is the large wire circled on the right going? That looks like it should be feeding K1 possibly?!?

It appears you may be on the wrong diagram. Also looks like that picture I posted is a picture of K2..... I'm having him get a picture of K1. This is the diagram that should match our trucks:

This truck should be 100% LED like mine. Doesn't have door markers (A1R's don't have them). But that's a good call to pull out the other CB's and see if we can narrow down the circuit that's the problem.

Right - I knew the K11 NC contacts powered the E terminal and so I had him pull it to see if it was in fact still being powered and thus not sending the excite signal to the VR. The idea being if it clicks when you insert it (while running) then obviously the issue is that K11 isn't...

I misread your question. You need to cage all the rear wheel chambers - they all have parking brake springs. The front axle chambers are the ones that don't have parking brakes. Any chamber that has a caging bolt hole on the back will have to be caged.

They do all use the same oil pump. The listings I see show the same pump being used on 3116, 3126, and C7. So potentially yes the 3116 could have the older pump design and could be upgraded to the gerotor pump if needed or desired.

Just the parking brake chambers.

Ok I've been talking to 1pineapple over the phone on this issue. So the truck has three major issues at the moment - the ignition switch does trigger both ignition relays and they do click. But there's still 24v on 87 and 30 on the 24v relay so the truck doesn't shut down. Given that someone...

Yeah they switched from a gear pump to gerotor pump. They must have had reason to do this so probably worth changing it out if it has the older style.

Oil drain plug?

Thing is - unless your engine is a leaking, oil burning mess you'll save money with synthetic and bypass filtration. I put in Amsoil 15w40 MAX and a bypass filter and I have no intention of ever changing the oil again. What's your time worth? What's your HEUI system worth? Do the math and decide...