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Thanks for those numbers, Speedwoble. Now I know for a fact that my tires are overloaded...even with an empty bucket. They're 4,200 lbs. max, and I run nowhere near max inflation pressure. Oh well, it seems to work fine anyway.

It has most likely been forklifted before, so one more time probably wouldn't hurt...much. GP would likely do that for you. Unloading obviously requires nothing more than gravity, and possibly a tug with a tow strap. At least if the driver thought to bring ramps.

Would the adjustments not allow centering the axle, or did you bend the bars to get it done quicker?

Congratulations on the simple fix. That I can see being a joy - to then drive 50-55 mph, not so much.

Some of us wish we had missed out, too. At least occasionally. But don't give up, wheelspinner.

So tell us how you really feel about Fords, Tinstar. Not that I ever had enough tools or patience to own one...

It's definitely not a coating that is intentional. It appears to be leftovers of the (whatever) fuel that was in the tank, and covered only the bottom 20%, or so, of the tank. And if normal additives can loosen it up, maybe biodiesel would do it more effectively? It'd be nice to get that crud...

To put things in perspective, here's a normal tank. A bit concave, even. Then there's the one I'd like to be able to remove.Actually, access to the hoses on the sending unit looks better in the photo than it is in reality. I thought my pressurization was largely responsible for this tank's...

Had the opportunity to work on the sometimes-working interlock switch on the SHEE, and here's what I've learned. If pushing the clutch pedal doesn't create the connection, start with unscrewing the connector from the back of the switch. Turn on the master switch and ignition, then bridge the...

If you use 1/4-oz. rather than 1/2-oz. weights, they're quite thin. At least the old lead ones I still have are. Of course, you'll need twice as many.

I think the 1008 wheels might be lighter than the 1009 wheels, so from that standpoint they're a good idea. And I don't see why you would need any spacers. If you do, I'd go with an aftermarket wheel with less back spacing.

You have no idea how tempting it is to say "I could've told you that.". And maybe I did tell you, in a roundabout way, that it wouldn't. Anyway, if you're driving the pin out far enough to clear the blockage, why not pull it all the way out, clean everything up, lube things, and slap it back...

Okay, that rings a bell. Since you're this deep into it, why wouldn't you go through the trans?

That looks like work. Please refresh my memory; what was the original issue that prompted this?

Maybe biodiesel would be the simple solution? I suspect that my use of additives is what loosened up the previously largely solidified crud. Yes, there was a lot of loose stuff in there from the beginning, most of which I managed to flush out, but now the part that looked like spray-on bedliner...

If you're correct, alpine44 (which I hope you're not), and that crud is indeed bacteria rather than leftovers of JP8 and consequent chemical reactions, I have to start with a chemical warfare approach. Since the forward bracket for the tank is easily removed, and the straps have been loosened...

Sorry, I wasn't thinking. If those nipples are not standard stuff (which does sound a little unlikely), it's just a matter of reusing them.

That's one reason I dislike skid plates. Another is that they tend to get in the way when performing routine maintenance. But if you actually do need one, which seems to be the case here, how about making it out of flat stock? If made to be like a grate, it wouldn't necessarily catch all that...

Dang, I didn't know there was clear hose available. But it figures...now that I just ordered more black hose. In reality, I think any hose with the correct ID that is resistant to diesel and has at least some tolerance for heat, would work. After all there's no pressure, positive or negative, to...