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Checked the front of the M1008, which is at 22.5 and 22.75 inches. It's a low mileage unit. For kicks, I also measured a 3/4-ton Suburban with a 6.2, which is at 22 and 21.75 inches. Neither one has a droopy front front clip, which would be very evident when looking at the reveal by the door...

Normally it would be, yes. But I can pluck a trailer off of his trailer with the HMMH's crane, so it would really only be a matter of undoing the tie downs. Then I'd have two 105s that I wouldn't know what to do with.

There's still time. He can drop it off here, along the way.

I've found that there's more info about FLUs on this thread than my brain cell can contain. It'll take you a few hours to plow through it from the beginning, especially if you take notes, but it'll be well worth it.

And to top it off, you'll face snow today. Got about four inches over night, but it's melting quickly.

It'd be a lot quicker and easier for everybody involved to use the method that LastFbody described above. Center of hub to top of wheel well is a fairly universal way of measuring ride height, doesn't require getting underneath the vehicle, and works regardless of tire size.

Jeez, glaser06, your Jeep is new compared to mine. Okay, at least 41 years newer. Wish you lived closer. I'd gladly balance tires in return for getting to use your blast cabinet and powder coating stuff. But I do have a mechanical handheld tachometer that my dad gave me. As far as the 2x4...

While it's not the case here (remember, the tires look good), the easiest way I've found to explain Hunter's Road Force variation system is to picture a piece of 2x4 attached to the tread. It wouldn't be a nice setup to drive down the road with, but with a regular balancer that 2x4 can be...

Well, shoot, if the tires look good, they can't possibly contribute to the problem. And I didn't realize that ball joints needed to be completely shot to cause any issues. But maybe you luck out, and paying attention the the rotors and shocks will eliminate the wobble when you're decelerating...

You are certainly entitled to your beliefs. In the real world, however, tires do not stay balanced all that long. And as I tried to get across above, there's balancing and then there's balancing. For example, when getting tires and wheels as a package from Tire Rack, they come balanced on a...

Easy for them to do, since the Tahoe (like the older Suburban) has a steel roof. One of many projects that never materialized; I got a Suburban with the intent of grafting its (partial) roof, sides, and barn doors onto my M1009.

Thought more about this last night, and you may have gained caster due to the springs effectively being shorter with the negative arch - if they are unusually saggy, which they don't appear to be. Either way, too much caster also leads to death wobble, with seven degrees being about the limit...

An idler would be simpler, no? Either way, having driven tens of thousands of miles with a 12 Volt conversion, and quite a few miles with no alternator belts whatsoever, I never experienced any power steering issues.

Never heard of springs being responsible for a death wobble. Nor do I understand how they could be, but that doesn't mean they couldn't. Somehow. At least it'd be as likely as that worn wiper blades would cause it, I think. Unless...if your rear springs are unusually tall, then when combined...

Had an M1009 that I played around with different gearing, tires, and transmissions in. With a 700R4, 4.10s and 35-inch tires it was pretty much perfect, including for doing 70+ mph. Although, that was with a Banks turbo. An Atlas II transfer case improved the slow poking aspect.

Plumbing in the electrical pump was my way of pressurizing the system. It's a low pressure pump (3 psi, or so) but that should still be enough to force fuel out, rather than air getting in. Now it acts as if the line is plugged somewhere after the strainer, since no fuel makes it up to the...

I give up, too. CUCVRUS suggested a switch on the starter cable, and I saw nothing wrong with that. Apparently there is.

If one forgets to turn off the engine, yes. Or if a meteor happens to hit the switch, it'd be useless, too.

You wouldn't. But as CUCVRUS mentions in post number 84 (conveniently positioned before post number 89) , a switch in the starter cable could be used.

Well, while my dad gave me crap for spending time on parts underneath my Jeep when I built it, saying "Nobody will ever see that", I knew it was there and wanted it done right and looking good. And being lazy, I try doing things right the first time. Of course, these days I can barely keep up...