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Do you know how to send a “PM”? Click my name and hit “Start Conversation”, and away we go. Basically it will be to click my name, send $, install your alt, and done. 3 step process. ;)

You will have to drain the coolant no matter which type you use. No videos I know of. I’ll look for the post I did on it later on today a long time back, I included pics and a description.

Don’t be scared of the freeze plug type. Super easy to get to on the 8.3, you don’t have to remove anything, and the new one seals up with an O ring and ratchet. You can knock the plug out with an extension and a hammer in one swift hit. And easily reversible if you need to drive a new one...

Thanks for the credit, but no big deal really. It is the only MV I own, so if it does not start, it is going to take a while to jump it with a bunch of 12v stuff spaghetti’d together like we are giving Frankenstein CPR. I’m not as organized on my time management as I probably should be, so...

I don’t understand battery chargers. Meaning, I dropped two grp 31’s in my truck years ago, and can go over 6 months without starting it, and she fires right up. Every 5 years, I chuck them out for brand new ones at a cost of $200 even though they are still cranking perfect. Never had them...

That’s why it’s tamper-proof. ;)

Trans is stil in the truck. Is a divorced mounted unit, was not on rear of engine. Yep, to steal words of others, Detroit was the Arsenal of Democracy during WWII when the auto plants were converted to build planes, tanks, engines, etc... Now it’s Hash Bash (Ann Arbor).

I’d really like to see it go to support others. There is so much unique hardware on here it is sickening. Trans, transfer case, all controls, pumps, gauges, nozzles, all good. But in the end, she will be hard to move with no axles and not many of thee are personally owned, so will have to...

$1,000, which is way below scrap price considering the weight and amount of chassis body pure aluminum. Engine and axles removed. Rest complete and very good condition. Everything moved and worked.

It is. It is in MI. Come have a seat, and take the entire thing home with you.

Not 500hp. I think it was 400hp, which was big time back then. I just lifted the engine out of this fire truck. It is very large and very heavy. Way more than a Cummins Signature 600hp ISX I have sitting next to it, which is many decades newer of course.

You can do it yourself on the engine by pulling the injection pump gear off and backing the engine up or by “spill timing” it, or send the injection pump out to any pump shop and have it changed internally so you can then just easily install and pin time it (can’t miss). Details for doing it...

Not entirely, because even after the push start, you need to put a starter in it.

Just saw him off, took him 2 ring terminals he needed and soldered them onto his harness and shrink tubed them, stayed until truck started, helped him clean up, and they were underway. Straps, good question: The straps were just a luck combo really. One was a traditional thin yellow long one...

The other guy had a D-Max and gave it his all:

Don’t know about the oil, maybe.

Towed him, his family, and all their stuff to safety. When I pulled up and saw a 43’ tri-axle 18,000 pound trailer on his truck, I was like, really? Tow bar was not complete. Then a family peeks their heads out the windows, and I said it looks like this needs to happen. We strapped it and...

Hats off bro, you did an awesome job!

Took the turbo gauge from your kids Atari huh? At least you used flange head bolts bro. ;)

How about just not using low in reverse? With the 10:1 reverse trans ratio, I don't see low + reverse being needed.