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$289 for full 8.3 kit. Can ship this week. You can safely shut your truck down in any switch order after the swap.

I actually advise to go with a traditional brush type clone. They are affordable and work great. If you have an a2 (8.3), I sell a complete proper kit with both brackets, alt, pulley, and all fasteners for $40 above the total cost of parts. PM me, or you can research some threads here and go...

Yeah, that’s a lunched alternator. For daytime use, the truck will crank and run for a long time on 4 batteries with an inop charging system.

Air pressure governor on the firewall, pass side, underhood. Canister looking ordeal with 3 or so air lines to it. Adjustment is on end, under cap.

Some shift knob info for what I went with.

Good progress, thanks for the pics. Wow, that jack shaft is way shorter on a 250 setup vs the 8.3. Mine is way longer and an actual shaft with yoke end, will post a pic later. On your morph-joint, I wonder if that could simply be made by buying a joint of each type and then just swapping out...

On the spline slip yoke, check this catalog just as an example under HD dept: https://www.macpek.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Spicer-slip-yokes.pdf They offer them in different lengths, which I think is the easy way to do this. I think about $100 new?

Yes, I believe so. I’ll confirm on mine tomorrow. , but that is what this diagram shows, and it covers both the range selector and gear splitter.

My fly housing is driver side starter. May be OK.

They sell longer spline yokes. Here are pics of the air lines I did on mine, sorry they are late. Let me know if you need more info on which goes where. Air fitting at the rear is truck air in. Goes directly to filter/regulator, then the push-to-connect fittings are for the shifter lines...

Totally forgot. Will do tomorrow morning. I just realized the flywheel housing has to use the starter in the high mount position because of the frame rail clearance due to the engine shifted over. Dang it. I’ll have to change what I have, and it does not look like the 8.3L uses a 1” thick...

Sure, will do it Monday.

Should be 6 buttons. I did mine with all new stuff from Eaton. Important they are exactly perpendicular to the flywheel surface so the clutch releases well and the disc can float and move and release tension off the flywheel side plate. I aligned my buttons with an end wrench and used a...

Found the missing one huh? I can look back at the pics of mine if you need any reference info.

Sorry just seeing this. I have 2 Detroit locker 5 ton diffs, as well as a full set of all three 5 ton selectable air locking axles with power divider.

Cool. Exciting to see it come together. Are you doing the dual fuel line mod while you have access to the back of the head? Yes, my 5.25” was from the back of the block, but that is on an 8.3L based engine. My stock military flywheel housing on my 8.3L for mate to the Allison is deeper, but...

Here is some info on mine if you are considering a hydraulic clutch. My flywheel housing depth measures 5.25” deep. The SAE #2 clutch housing is for the hydraulic throwout actuator. One large window on the side with 2 bolts is access for clutch adjustment, the other on the bottom with 4 bolts...