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Maybe I'll attempt this some day. I'll be curious to see what the steel looks like under all that insulation. @glcaines have any pictures of your insulation tear-out?

I'm wondering if heat-resistant paint for the washers should be considered. The engine compartment probably gets up to about 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and I'm not sure how well regular automotive paint would hold up to that.

How do you plan on re-coating the insulation? The coating on my hood and side panels is coming off too, little by little.

I'd get a single $1 rivet if you can and measure that to figure out a common rivet to use. I saw a pack of 10 on EBay for $10 after a quick look. It might be a small additional price to pay to get your job done.

I'd be tempted to take those to a shop to get them done. They'll have the big tools to get them apart and back together in no time. Around where I live the shops prefer those wheels to the two-piece bolt-together wheels because they don't take as much time or effort to swap tires.

Ever since I've had the wheels overtightened on my daily drivers by idiot mechanics, I've always torqued my lug nuts to spec. I do more of my own wheel and driveline work now too. Those guys just like to tighten the crap out of stuff and just move on to the next thing. My old minivan had to...

A stock M35A3 with 365/80R20 super singles is about 113 inches high at the top of the bed tarp. If you have the traditional tires like @porkysplace mentioned you'll probably be just a little shorter than that.

Reminds me of a Military Vehicles Magazine article I read awhile ago where there's a fellow who also lives on a little island who has a DUKW for moving supplies back and forth from the main land.

This is the first time I've read about this. I'd totally expect to get hamburgered if I roll my truck. I'm glad he made it out fine! Good luck with the repairs!

I recommend getting at least a 1:64 gear ratio multiplier. If you use a torque wrench with it - a 1/4" drive will do! - add 20% to the torque setting to account for slop in the gear train. For reference, Snap-On torque multipliers have 15% slop.

With a standard/shallow socket the reaction arm should be able to rest against another lug nut on the adjacent wheel stud.

I don't think it actually has a brand. It has a generic description for a name - I'll have to check in my shop tomorrow. It's very similar to the one that @banditt1979 showed there. The Chinese ones on Amazon seem to be the same basic tool but may come with different sockets. The torque...

I used a Chinese-made cast-iron torque multiplier a friend of mine got on Amazon to loosen and torque all the clamp ring nuts on my truck's wheels as well as the lug nuts - 450 ft-lbs max. It works great!

The last time someone had a problem like this, it was a fuel-related issue: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m923a2-starts-only-with-ether-and-stalls-when-put-into-gear.178548/ The solution for this member's problem is in post #58. Your problem might have a different cause, but reading...

Ya know what... The axle shaft should've come out with the hub cap, right? It doesn't look like anything sheared off, so I'm guessing it was modified.

I think the older trucks like yours didn't come from the factory with windshield washers, so they would've been added on as a kit of sorts. I haven't seen kits like that with self-tapping screws or stuff like that. Everything gets bolted together with a separate nut.

The hubs on the rear axle are flipped to run singles that can track on the same line as the front wheels. My truck was actually set up like that from the factory being an M35A3, and the M34 trucks were also built like that. The hub and drum should pull off just like the non-flipped setup the...

The closest free PDF I could find was a service manual for transmissions up to the MT653. I have no idea what the difference is between the MT653 and MT654 besides the version number (the last digit in the model number). The MT654 might have some different component design or features that the...

I was wondering about that too! But I didn't see a fill cap on it. Then again I haven't looked at the one on my truck lately to remember if it had a separate fill cap.

Where is that box mounted? Somewhere in the cab?