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New to me Deuce with matching trailer - wrenching post

banditt1979

banditt1979

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I was able to finish rebuilding the air pack last night. The kit I got was from C and C Equipment in Nashville IN. No major issues, everything looked pretty good except the air can was full of brake fluid. The gasket for the back of the air can ended up tearing due to being too small so I reused the original gasket. The kit came with only 2 copper washers, the large one for the front of the slave cylinder and I'm guessing the other one was for one of the brass flare fittings. Didn't matter as it was too big so I went to HF and bought a copper washer assortment. The 7/16" was too small and the 1/2" was too big. So out came the dremel and I opened up the 7/16" to get an exact fit. Now waiting on the master cylinder kit which should be here Tuesday.
20220316_212916.jpg20220318_212134.jpg
Removed the brake switch at the front and plugged it with a 1/8" NPT plug since it had both the hydraulic and air switches
20220318_212146.jpg
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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Today some light work. Drained the air tanks, just a small amount of water out of the inboard tank. Reattached 2 air lines to the body under the hood that were left hanging. Checked the air filter, looks ok. Tightened the air fittings to the transfer case switch. Soaked all the brake line fittings with penetrating oil in preparation of disassemble and replace. Determined that the water temp sensor is bad, got no readings while running but when the connection is grounded the gauge reads hot. Noted that the front dust seals for the axle have begun to separate. There were 3 spare wheel assemblies that came with it, 2 of them have tires that are shot, one has maybe half tread so I got it out of the truck and put 30 lbs of air in it. We'll see if it holds, it had 6psi in it. Planning on pulling the 2 good wheels off the trailer to install on the front of the truck and install the tires on the front of the truck on the trailer. If the spare holds air I'll install it in the spare location. Ordered the budd stud socket and the 3" OTC tools socket for the hub nuts. Hope to have them for the weekend so I can start pulling wheels and checking the brakes.
Does anyone have a source for the rubber air hose that runs off the tee and into the air switch for the transfer case? I'll do some searching as well.
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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Big Mikes has the hose for $48 guess thats not too hateful. I unscrewed it and wrapped some teflon on the fitting and tightened it up. Once I finish reinstalling the air pack and master cylinder I'll fire it up and see if it still leaks. Got the master rebuild kit today so I'll put it back together tonight.
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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DaneGer21 said:
Not sure if you have seen this, or if you’re still looking, but I came across this today…not sure if it’s what need…

www.ebay.com

M35A2 CANVAS 50 CAL RING MOUNT COVER | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for M35A2 CANVAS 50 CAL RING MOUNT COVER at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. Mine came with a vinyl cover but it seems too small even though the original owner said it fit. Maybe I'll try stretching it out
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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cbrTodd said:
I'm wondering if that is a windshield washer fluid reservoir. My deuce had nothing mounted there, but mine never had a windshield washer pump or nozzles either.
Click to expand...
I think you're right. Was just looking at big mikes website and saw a clear version that looked the same. I bet the other piece is the pump and missing the handle. I'll check it out closer tomorrow. Thanks!
 
HDN

HDN

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cbrTodd said:
I'm wondering if that is a windshield washer fluid reservoir. My deuce had nothing mounted there, but mine never had a windshield washer pump or nozzles either.
Click to expand...
I was wondering about that too! But I didn't see a fill cap on it. Then again I haven't looked at the one on my truck lately to remember if it had a separate fill cap.
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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No cap and it must have regular nuts on the other side of the bolt because they wouldn't come out, just spin. Working with the older muscle cars they used speed nuts so the military must had their reasons for not using them. Either way, I pulled this out from under the dash

20220323_202238.jpg

Its missing the guts and the lever but it appears either someone was installing the washer pump and didnt do the nozzles, or they repaired or replaced the cowl and didnt remove the rest of the parts. I think the mechanical washer pump is cool as heck, not to mention would still work should there be an EMP incident near it. For now I will keep it in mind to do a full install after the brakes and any other mechanical work is done. Today I received the steel brake lines I need to do a full replacement along with a gallon of BFS. All I need now is the 3" socket for the hub nuts and a 3/4" impact which I can pick up almost anywhere, and I'll be able to service all 6 hubs and brake systems.
I also plan on pulling the wheel assemblies from the trailer and using them on the front of the truck since the right side is worn hard on the outside tread and the left side is less than half tread. Both the trailer wheels have tires that are dated 1985 and 1987 but have at least half or better tread and no dry rot. Plus the wheels look nicer.
 
banditt1979

banditt1979

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Location
Cincinnati, OH
Today I picked up some 3/4" drive tools (impact, ratchet, adapters) and I received the 3" nut socket and temp sensor yesterday. Of course its going to be in the upper 30's this weekend. I've been looking around at the dual circuit brake system options. I'd like to go that route but an extra air pack is running $5-600. For now I think I'll just stick with what I have and keep an eye out for a cheap rebuildable air pack. Also contacted Dorman about a master cylinder, they responded pretty quickly with a dimension sheet but couldn't tell me the stroke.
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ToddJK

ToddJK

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Nice! That air tool sure will come in handy.
Be sure to check the wires too for the temp sensor from the sensor and from the gauge. My gauge quit on me about a month ago and when I went to swap it out, the wire just broke right off at the connector to the gauge it was so old and brittle. I had to rewire it from the sensor to the gauge and replace it from the gauge going to the battery. I refused the connectors with some good quality 14 awg wire. Been good since so far.
 
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