Search results

mine was stuck on real bad too. I used a chisel/wedge also and a 5lb hammer.

yes it is. I have a 12vdc battery to run it, Im going to put a 12vdc alternator on it someday too. the mount uses the existing brackets where the shackles are on top, then the 5 bumper bolts are removed and rebolted through the bumper plate.

I wanted to keep the weight down, but with heavy wall tubing and 1 inch thick pivot arms, it is still over 600 lbs.....guessing

no....too busy and am worthless on a computer.

put the nut back on and use a ball joint fork with a real hammer. No need to torch anything. a LITTLE heat helps, but too much will weaken the steel permanently.

I made a smaller one to fit my driveway.

yea the school busses up here use them all winter. half the roads here are gravel but plowed, and they dont go down any dirt roads.

I dont think they " bite" very hard, especially if you are stopped in the mud and try to take off.

I chain up every winter and dont remove them for about 4 months. I never had problems going anywhere up here. I dont drive on the highway (no need/desire to) though. Also I run Michelins, not NDT. At first, I ran a set of A3 14s up front for the track pattern, but now I just run all 11s and...

you can also slide a piece of pipe that is slightly larger than the bearing. the pipe should be long/short enough to just be near the shaft threads so you can put a piece of flat bar across it with a hole in it. screw on the nut and either use washers as make up spacers to pull it off, or a pry...

too bad they can't make a automatic transmission to hold up like a manual. I get 3-400K from my manuals before having to replace them. Ive never got more than 250K from a automatic except in a old 300D.

all the tires are aired up, they are not sunk to the rims in soil, there is no forest growing under it. someone has been starting it and moving it at least once every few years. BUY IT.

a 150$ master cylinder and a 100$ brake can along with a piece of 3/8" plate is a lot cheaper than 700$ for one set up that we'd have to modify to fit.

I would thing lubing it would give a false reading since oil isnt compressible. those bearings look good if within spec.

you'll never see a safe 60mph. you need power steering, and fix the other issues. I would sell it instead of dumping 3-4K into power steering, possibly a new radiator, and still be only able to drive 50mph max safely.

I used to loosen the head bolts , remove the rockers and crank the engine over to remove a stuck head.

apartment 495? must be a huge apartment to store all that stuff.

A Harbor Freight sand blaster would make that interior look good in 1 hour. then replace and rewire the dash components with original NOS or convert it to 12vdc.

I had a vacuum pump on my Ford 1989 F250. I still got a spare somewhere, but not the truck. My 1992 F 450 (super duty) brake system ran off the power steering pump. I forgot what it was called. And my current 1994 F350 has a vacuum booster, but it is a gasser (460=plenty too). I really like both...

I didnt see any reference in my manual on valve guide seals. that doesnt mean they couldn't be added though, if he cant get new valve guide inserts. Am I missing it somewhere?