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they'd have to add a steering U joint somewhere to keep the gear in place. Old IH cabovers had it and didn't have power steering, so its doable if someone really wanted to go through all that trouble. Mine has a air operated seat from another commercial truck installed by the previous owner.
thats a lot of work. In that case, I'd cut the tube and shaft, install a steering U-joint and move the steering wheel toward the window like a old cab over truck had, but with the second section ( lower) through the fire wall, in its original place.
yes. thats what is on mine now. I take the front A3 wheels off in the winter and put on the A2 wheels with 11/20's, so I can run my spiked chains on ice. The rears always have the stock split rims with 11/20's on.
11/20's work fine. thats what I run. Just chain up the outside rear wheels when needed, and if in bad ice, put a set on the front too. Im chained up right now and go everywhere I want in the snow and on the ice, and also pulling a few downed trees for firewood. Im not in flat ground country.
Heads up...I bought a air operated barrel pump from HFT. Its junk. at 8 psi to get the oil to flow, it pressurized the barrel into a foot ball, ruining it for reuse. I assumed it was a little piston pump when I bought it, but it just adds air into the barrel, forcing the oil up the tube. THEN...
A local "hot rod" building shop could do it as long as you provide the connectors and the wiring schematic. I bet even a high school or junior college automotive class would do it. Its not rocket science as the engineering has already been done. Have them use the correct gauge wire and...
Ive been thinking about removing mine also and mounting it in the back to assist my bumper, and use as a step, since I've already broke 2 glad-hand fittings backing into trees and logs. M y Ford Flat bed is on its 3rd tail light. Firewood is dangerous.
But the connector ends and make up your own. You can color code a lot of it like trailer lights are, and pinch on the metal wire numbers. There is only about 30$ of wire for the lights, alternator, solenoid, heater and senders. If You wasn't so damn far away, I'd help you do it.
If yours is missing: TM 9-2320-361-24P figure 87, part # 223444. its #6 on the illustration. I'd just plumb a aftermarket one in rather than pay $$$ for the "military" version