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if anyone is shipping "TOWARD" east cost that lives in the dark blue on the below map.. Let me know.. Maybe we can share ship cost of two pallets of material placed onto one pallet. After it arrives to you.... repack just one set onto the pallet then take it to Fastenal on ready to go...
revise my previous statement.... if anyone is shipping "TOWARD" east cost that lives in the dark blue on the below map.. Let me know.. Maybe we can share ship cost of two pallets of material placed onto one pallet. After it arrives to you.... repack just one set onto the pallet then take it to...
ohhhhh. like that. Have considered Urine for running solar powered HHO Brown gas for engine cleaning and long upgrades. Urine does not need a catalyst compared to typical HHO system) But .. bit hesitant. My HHO system is from UK ... was test product for city busses..... rare and...
I could actually do that if I got a pallet of this kit sent to me. . I have four already but no controls or cables. I didnt pay the rediculous prices they sell at now. but could sell for same price I paid (not over 100 bucks)
its a great deal. I want one but shipping on a pallet across the country just makes it out of my price range.
PS- if anyone want to share shipping.. (move it all onto one pallet) to get it way closer to east coast.. maybe ship rest of way via Fastenal (im in OH) HIT ME UP. (I dont have dock or...
thanks for update on the other Monro Model. I know the 65485 one has been used successfully... maybe cause they are a bit stiffer than OEM?. The OEM appear to be, even at new...... extremely soft. The 65456 should then be even better
looking at your Fbook... looks like you have 6x6 rear axle. or is that a high pinion newer single LMTV axle?? .. if 6x6 is it staying 6x6 with your mods... or ??
with that combo of switches you have an LBCD. Not that it matters which when it comes to just clean the terminals. Look for any hints of a burned up solenoid in the area of the switches by the battery box while cleaning all those terminals.
Somewhere in here is an image of wiring when of...
sounds plausible. while you check the other voltages..... guess its back to cleaning all your grounds and wires between battery bank and the solenoids etc. beside them (disconnect switch area) and the LBCD connections.
PS- "cold" intensifies connection issues.
If you have the 260amp alt.... no "need" to go go 2 batts. Not too many A1 C7's in civilian hands. You got a sweeet rig once you get her figured out.
on the regulator pretty sure your era truck would have the two LED's on the alternator voltage regulator. Red and Green I believe they are...
IMHO if your leaning toward swapping to a commercial 200amp alternater..... get a bussman....... but.... take some time if you got it and watch ebay. They pop up at real good prices few times a year.... if your diligent you can save some funds.
When your running it we need to know what the colors/ patterns of LED lights on voltage regulator attached too the alternator are flashing. Also what does the Dash volt meter say exactly.
A1 came with both 3126 and C7's. Yours being a 2006 A1 w/C7 changes EVERYTHING about charging compared to 3116. except DONT CHARGE LOOOW BATTs VIA ALTERNATOR. Do with a wall charger as mentioned in earlier post.. (one bat att a time)
Crud.. hard as hell to search the internet for two...
you got lotttttt of reading ahead of ya lol.
DON"T ALTERNATOR CHARGE if you got any of them low
stop the truck. Charge one battery at a time with 12v charger. Take each one to be tested individually.
if you got two good batteries out of the four..... remove two of the four and run off two...