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I don't understand the MMO? Marvel mystery snake oil? If the kid did run it with 2 qts oil the damage is done and won't be fixed with any oil. I remember wayyy back in school we were told that a SBC that holds 5 qts oil when running only has about 1-2 qts in the pan, the rest is in the oil...

That's odd, I know I'm old and got out of the dent bangin biz years ago but still do a few jobs here n there. Etch primers are still in high use around here (North East) and as far as "poorly degreased surfaces" go there's only one cure for that and that is to CLEAN IT! Back in the 70 lacquer...

Dumping oil in the top end will do little to nothing. Sorry to say but it sounds like you're in for atleast a set of main and rod bearing and probably a set of rings, and that means cutting the cylinder ridge and honing. And while you're in there might as well replace the cam bearings and cam...

3 gallons of any primer is a lot, 3 gallons of single stage color for two trucks isn't all that much. Nothing sticks as well as factory primer and paint, never "strip" a vehicle down unless something is wrong with the paint itself. I've painted professionally and there is no way I'd do two at...

Well, I might be running into the same problem soon. The 1/4" square stock would be mild steel and twist. Seeing as the engine is out I think I would take a hex nut and set it over top of the plug and then MIG weld the INSIDE of the nut to the plug, then while still hot (but not red...

700R4, for simplicity's sake and it's what I know. I believe the 4L60 and 80 series needs a computer to shift, IIRC the computer is available as a stand alone unit but why put any computer on a mechanical engine? Remember K.I.S.S? Keep It Simple Silly?

For me , Yes. In the early years 700R4 had a bad rap for being weak and burning clutches. But that was back then and this is now. I've done the swap a couple times and never looked back! On my one truck I plowed not only my driveway but also my (private)street and a parking lot that was big...

A 700r4 conversion might be a lot cheaper and can be done easy enough for beginners in a driveway. No disrespect meant but if you have to ask what is a carrier, then that project isn't really for you. Lots of experienced mechanics shy away from rear gears.

Tioga Pa. can't be but a few hours away from CUCVRUS , check and see if he has any.

To me that kit looks like it's more of a thread repair (Heli-coil) kit. If your worried about the bolt getting ripped out of the block then that kit might work, as for repairing a crack, no.

Not at that price!

I'd be careful having a filter down low and back by the tank. You can probably get away with it but here in NY that filter would get very cold while driving and covered with slush creating the potential of gelling. It's also easier to change two filters close together then far apart.

Sounds like a bad pump to me, either that or someone added Ford type fluid, that eat up the seals in older GMs.

WOW! Why didn't you just get a set of drip rails from the bone yard? Pick up truck one's will work but the rear ones from a Suburban fit and look stock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H9ABXS/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=axlesgarage-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002H9ABXS&linkId=100ff6db778458c9cad93963102efb48 I had no idea they still made and sold that! I bet I paid about $6-8 for one 30 years ago.

That just doesn't make sense, I'm not doubting that your having this problem just something that we don't see is wrong. Did you disassemble this engine or did someone else? Could the main caps have gotten switched around? Is the crankshaft the original one to that engine or is it a replacement...

I think the "select fit" is a way of saying measure and buy the undersize bearings that fit THAT particular journal. Unless the crank has been turned or will be turned I buy the standard size and then plasti-gage them, I can't remember when that didn't work.

OK, It kinda looked like half was done at a time and it made me wonder. I've played with PC small parts, can't even imagine the oven needed for a frame! Looking good and keep posting!

You can adjust the wiper by just popping it off the stud that comes up thru the cowl panel, easier said then done. I have or had a tool for it but they are no longer made. You can remove it with a flathead screwdriver and a small piece of heavy cardboard or something like that. On the very...

One drain and one fill. Now for my question, in the frame pics it looks like you powder coated the frame in sections, if so how did you bake it? Or does it just look that way in the pic's?