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Well this doesn’t look good… Not Running Front Battery 12.72 Rear Battery 12.53 Together 25.1 Running Front Battery 13.7 Rear Battery 12.3 Together 26.2 Maybe the Regulator for the passengers side alternator needs replace. That’s the area I accidentally tapped with the tiny screw driver...

This is really great! I need step by step since I don’t have an experience with this sort of thing. Thank you thank you. I’ll do all of this and report my results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for getting back to me. The Passengers Side Alternator was unplugged But I slightly touched where the plug goes inside the alternator. I guess that would be one of the prongs on the inside of the alternator. I think the side where the brown wire plug goes in. I can’t say for sure, but...

Hi Skinny! I’ve seen your name in plenty of threads! How exactly do I check the charging voltage in the truck? As far as a regulator what is it called exactly and where is it located? Sorry for all of the questions, I’m still learning and have a lot left to learn! My alternators are...

I pulled on each fuse link. Nothing seemed loose or wanted to give. Not sure if that means none are blown or what. Not sure what to do next?? Is there another way to test the fusible links? p.s. One of you said to test the alternator plug. How exactly do I do that? I’m still learning, bare...

Thank you!! I’ll check the wires now. I’ll have to figure out the size if one is blown. I have to go to Napa anyways, so it will work out. The Fuel Gauge stopped working after this incident. If it still doesn’t work after this fusible link stuff I may hit you guys up again. First things...

I think I’m starting to understand. I’ll pull on all of those near the back of the engine compartment. As well as the one I found near the alternator. I had no idea about these or how they work. I will look at Napa today for new links. Does the number on the tubing represent the wire gauge...

Thanks for getting back to me. I’m still learning so bare with me please. Are you meaning these black pieces with numbers at the ends of the wires? I’m guessing there might be fuses inside? Maybe I’m way off. Thanks again for any help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ended up replacing the Engine Temperature Sensor and Plug on-top. The wiring on Old the plug was in bad shape. Even after driving and warming up the vehicle, the power jump still happened. The Glow Plug Card seems good, it wasn’t loose, etc. After all that, the power jump is still...

What the heck did I do? I was cleaning the plugs for the alternators of my M1009. I accidentally made contact with my tiny screw driver and a plug prong in the alternator on the passengers side. A spark or two flew. I first checked all of the fuses, none were blown. The Gen 2 Light is now on...

Thanks for responding. I did indeed replace the Engine Temperature Sensor when I replaced the Glow Plug Card & Glow Plug Relay. I’m going to double check the Card, make sure it isn’t loose. When I switched to LEDs, I kept the original type of bulbs in Gen. 1 & Gen. 2. I only knew of that...

I’ve noticed that when I start my CUCV M1009 up the lights are dim and flicker. The Voltmeter is in the Yellow. The Water in Fuel Light will flash and then the lights and Voltmeter are normal. The interesting thing is the aftermarket Oil Pressure Light seems good all the time. Video from today...

The light isn’t always staying on, so I went a head and ordered a new socket and 2 led lights for it. Let’s see if that does the trick. Thanks again everyone, including @cucvrus Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 4 Wheel Drive Light finally lights up. I ended up replacing the Sensor and the Plug with American made Standard Parts brand from O’Reily’s. I wrapped it all up in good electrical tape and hung it up with a zip tie to prevent any damage over time from heat from the transmission, etc...

The 4 Wheel Drive Light is the only one that won’t turn on. I changed the bulb twice, put a new socket in and it still wouldn’t work. I took a look underneath at the Transfer Case itself, looking for a sensor. Sure enough I found it, with 2 wires attached to it. It all looks fairly new...

Awesome! I had a feeling there was a new socket, I just didn’t know the specs, etc. Thank you for the heads up. My neighbor was able to fix the existing socket. We’ll have to see if it holds or not. If not, now I know what socket to get and where to get it. We also discovered a Mickey Mouse...

Good idea. I pried the contacts and it is better. It doesn’t lock, but almost. I’ll try a little more prying, if it doesn’t work I’ll tape it in place. I’ll report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*Update I believe I was able to repair the socket. I have to verify it works* I had a real rodeo getting the bulb out of the Voltmeter (It’s likely the original) of my CUCV M1009. On my first try only the bulb itself came out. I had to wrestle with various pliers to get the base of the bulb...

You were right about turning the bulbs. I got many to work after removing them and turning them 180 degrees and reinserting. The Seatbelt light now turns on (still no sound not sure why), the Brake Light works and so does the Low Coolant Light. That High Beam light is being a real pain. It...

Ahh, ok will do. Thanks for the heads up. I’m still learning! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk