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Thanks for editing your post.

(Oops, did I just do nineteen turns, but only counted eighteen ...!?:???::)) Still, I'm convinced that in order to get these tapered bearings correctly seated, it is much "healthier" for them to spin the whole assembly a dozen turns or so while (hand)tightening the adjuster nut - vs. simply...

A bit late... but for future searches, this can also be found in TM 9-2320-361-34P, Fig. 241. It's called "Radiator Guard" and it comes as a kit with the P/N 11609946-1, described on page 241-3

No, you won't get flamed... In this case "the end justifies the means", no matter how exactly you proceeded. :wink:

What exactly is wobbling? If it's the whole assembly, torsional damper including the belt pulley, then this part might be fitting way too loose on the crankshaft nose. In that case both parts may be worn out beyond limits, already. Loosen the crank front retaining bolt and try to wiggle the...

Ha-ha, that's funny... Same happens south of the Equator, too!:mrgreen:

I do... And you and Microjeep need to talk...:wink:

Ah... at first I thought it was me! I was in the middle of PMing someone when we had a sequence of grid power outages = no more WiFi. After that I tried everything possible to log on again but only kept getting this message "server is too busy..." 10 minutes later, after several attempts...

PM sent.

It seems that there is no-one currently selling these? Wondering why, really - because I'm sure there is a market. Maybe at $75 a piece there wasn't much meat left to keep the manufacturer/seller happy...?

Of course the cap would have to be fitted with a small ferrule for say a 1/8"hose, but otherwise no big deal. For depths up to 7 feet or so it only takes 1-2 psi to keep water out of the whole system.

If things got that deep.... you better had a well functioning deep water fording kit. And in that case it would be easy to also pressurize the reservoir.

Fixed. When a new member includes a link, that post automatically goes on moderation.

I'm not sure that there is an actual TM with that number? Not in our library, at least. Only this technical bulletin TB 9-2320-335-13&P. which is some additional info for the existing -387 manuals; these covering the M1113 and M1114, as well as all M1151; -52 and M1165 variants. All M1151 and...

Transmission- and T-case PTOs are two completely different parts. (you may study their descriptions and repair in TM9-2520-246-34, chapter 5). And no, the PTOs you already have won't help you in any way - except maybe trading them for the correct one (either WN-7-28 or WND-7-28 ). I'd post a...

:funny:

Still cheap. We have to pay $6.89/gal here, for what they call low sulfur (<10 ppm).

Read this thread and you will know how...

Ah... so simple. One (me) would assume that a complete axle rebuild also included removing the knuckles and inspecting/servicing the king pins. (These kind of "shortcuts" usually take their toll...:wink:) With everything correctly assembled - when pulling/pushing on the axle shaft - you...

Just to clarify: you are trying to install U-joint axle shafts - and corresponding (aftermarket) seal retainers - in an early style front axle? If so, I have been there, too... even posted about it, somewhere... Obviously the binding occurs because the stub axle shaft is longer than the actual...