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Yes. AKA the "Deuce Doctor": https://www.steelsoldiers.com/member.php?1401-clinto

Seems like it's still the same issue... Merged both threads.

x2! I don't think a propeller shaft out of phase or balance would cause the whole front end/brush guard to wobble "like crazy"...

Selling it or giving away? (No advertising in the open forums, please!)

If you mean the (P-136-C) PTO which mounts on the rear of the T-case, then the answer is NO and YES, respectively.

Thanks for pointing this out. All links resurrected, now...:-)

M10 x 1.00mm https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?53353-Glow-plug-size

You aren't talking about regular (rigid) PVC or? Because there should be some resiliency in the material to use. Have you considered making your own? https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=465593&d=1385907007

"these 2 piece bead locks"... ? What exactly are you referring to? I agree with suzukovich: all the 12- and 24-bolt wheels I have here actually do have the DOT stamp, with a date.

Calm down. The original question was, " Can these tires be run with no insert at all..."? And post #2 is the correct answer. Pressurized air keeps the beads in place, period. Same happens with 17.5"; 19.5"; 22.5"; etc. wheels, and there are many millions on the roads, all day long, and all...

Nothing - but air under pressure... 40 psi does a lot! I have many happy customers running the MT's; Bajas; MT/Rs on civilian 1-pc wheels, where you can't use any inserts. No complaints, so far. And of course everyone knows what can happen if aired down too much...

Reopened thread. (Not sure why it had been closed.)

In such hot environment, wouldn't a 140wt oil make it even worse, compared to 90wt? From the early 70's up to the newest book I could find (LO 9-2320-386-12 from JAN 96), they all call for GO 80/90. No mention of 140wt oil, anywhere.

Short answer: NO... That particular seal goes into the drum, not the housing. So you want to remove the drum - not the gear case. Stand the whole winch upright, gear case facing down. Then undo 5 bolts and 1 nut; pull up the clutch side end housing and clutch-related parts; then the keys, then...

:ditto:

It takes a 1-7/16" socket. It's a bolt, BTW.

It's not a cap really. Just a sleeve - both ends remain open. Bushing can easily be honed with fine sandpaper wound around a piece of pipe.

Nope, no blind ends, here.

Took care of it.

Approved post with links.