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That torque value is not really critical. Better be on the tight side than too loose! Go up to 150-160 ft-lb, then back-off to 0, then up again. Repeat if necessary. Sooner then later your cotter pin will fit. G.

Here is a (very)old post in reference to that: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26374-1968-M35A2-W-W-tranny-problem&p=276453&viewfull=1#post276453 10 years later... we all have learned that all of the 3053 transmissions out there had one and the same 5th-OD gear ratio (0.79:1)...

This other thread may answer some of your questions. BTW and while you are at it: Please take a caliper and measure the length of the link pins from your A3's front WC... this post... (inquiring minds want to know)

See it here... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59917-How-to-post-pictures-a-tutorial&p=1295196&viewfull=1#post1295196 Also, Welcome(!)... and please don't forget to add your state in your profile/location. It is a requirement.

:funny: .... Yeah, I believe this is the guy who started it all - and then almost vanished...!:-) Chris, glad to find you here, more often!

If a late reply is better than none.... TM 9-2320-361-20P (and also TM 9-2320-361-34P), Figs. 243;244 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?120606-5-Ton-ISO-Bed-Bow-length&p=1510111&viewfull=1#post1510111...

Fixed it...

Moderators note: the thread "Deuce horn not working" has been merged with this one, so we don't have two threads about the same topic, running parallel.

You are right, and that is why I deleted my previous post... Sorry about the confusion.

.... As long as it is a 6.5L N/A (detuned) engine, that's OK. The description in that TM clearly reads: PUMP,COOLING SYSTEM 6.2 AND 6.5 LITER DETUNED.......................

I just checked our TMs, again: According to TM 9-2815-237-34P, Fig. 27 - Item 5, the correct part number is 12514574 ... And with that number, this one pops up in one of the most popular e-sites, for $65:

Obviously there was enough heat built up to ruin other parts, too... At this point I'd recommend to replace the mainshaft plus 2nd gear, as well.

This one:https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/wapufor6hm57.html They seem to be out of stock, at the moment. But at least you have the complete description and P/Ns, there.

Yes, to what Tracer said.... I can confirm that your engine is a std bore (like all of them) and the crank was ground to first undersize. At least that's what that plate says. To prove it I used my (very limited) Inkscape knowledge to superpose one of my own overhaul dataplates, over your...

Yes.

Usually that is not an issue; the dogs from the synchros wear out faster. There is a way to check for wear - on the work bench, at least: put the synchro in Neutral and stick the gear inside; then measure the distance left between tips of dogs, of both parts.... Another good test: slightly...

Checked your pics... Input shaft is OK. 4th-5th sync has seen better days; specially its 5th gear end shows quite some wear on the drive side flanks of the dogs. 5th gear has seen some heat but may be reusable, after all. Rear thrust surface sure needs to be polished. 3rd gear: its...

Not if it was just a hole. Sounds like something else is there that the piston is hitting at TDC. Could be a fractured piece of it, stuck on top. Or something that got stuck in between valve and seat?

Ah... you found the problem(!) - I mean the cause of it... That belongs to the 5th gear sleeve. Without the collar, the gear can move backwards enough to slip out of engagement. I have found that collar split off of the sleeve, but always remaining in place; never broken in pieces like that...

Same goes for cotton canvas material: Try to avoid prolonged exposure to direct sun light; UV-rays do more damage than one might think! (It is extremely bad in this part of the world, so if a truck has to stay outdoors for longer we use a cheap (expendable) tarp to cover... the cover!