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So what could this all mean: PACKING, PREFO...........; GROMMET, NONMETA..........; FENDER, VEHIC...........; CONNECTOR, ELEC........; HEXAGON HE......... or SCREW, HEXAG........ I'm pretty sure you have an idea.... (and BTW, TM's are not perfect: WHELL, DRIVI.......) Typically a spindle could...

Please note that the original post has now been updated/edited, to avoid further confusion. Thank you.

.... And I hope that we have another "new member - happy owner" here, soon!? May even show up at the Rally in OCT, with his new toy...:driver:

Yes, they are perfectly interchangeable. 99% your '71 has a 3053. That's what came from factory, behind every single Multifuel engine. But if you want to be 100% sure you need to remove the top and look inside to count the teeth. This is what the 3053 has: And this is the 3052:

NO. And you could swap the 3053 tranny for a (gasser) model 3052; its first gear is as low as 7.55:1 vs. 5.01:1 for the 3053's 1st.

I just put these three words "CUCV cruise control" in that little window where it says Google Custom Search.... Following threads popped up immediately, among others: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?136729-What-all-do-I-need-to-install-a-cruise-control-kit-on-a-CUCV...

I'm sure there are other pictures posted but here is one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?23122-Deuce-trans-pushing-falling-out-of-5th&p=238242&viewfull=1#post238242

Different from the 3053A? No.

You might have a malfunctioning switch. Next time this happens, try to disconnect the line down to the T-Case. There should be no air pressure, immediately after switching off. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2520-246-34-1.pdf, Page 2-174

Maybe its time for an inspection and overhaul... Synchronizers usually are the first suspects. But if for example the rear bearing (6308 ) on the output shaft already got some axial play, then things like you describe can also happen. 1st, try to grab the output flange and check for play...

Happy Independence Day for all of you!

That's funny... I have been asked similar questions here, before... and no, I don't feel any special...:-) Easiest, shortest possible answer: ... School of "Life"! (That's the hardest training I ever went through, and still not quite done with it...;)) My formula: Keep eyes and ears open...

Build something like this? https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?129462-LDT465-powered-rat-rod&p=1603382&viewfull=1#post1603382

Correct; just pry up a tiny bit at a time and do several passages. Otherwise the metal is expanded too much and will crack. It is not necessary to do 360°; about 3/4 of the circumference and it may come apart already. Yes, you need to do this with a small shop press and at least two molds (=...

M14 × 1.5 is NOT correct for the HMMWV. You might read this other thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?168179-HMMWV-Lug-Nuts

May I remind you all to please stay on-topic... (The whole discussion about dry vs. lubed treads has been moved over to this other thread...)

This has been discussed before: the AT 545 is over 5 inches longer than the stock manual transmission, measured from it's bell housing mounting flange to output flange. So you will have to get very creative with some kind of short coupling, transmission to transfer case. Or move the whole TC...

So you have LS-diffs in both your rear axles? That was one serious hill climb... Thanks for sharing!

To calculate the (nominal) outer diameter and overall tire width... 14.00R20: Diameter = (2 × 14" × 100% aspect ratio) + 20" = 48" Width = 14" 395/85R20: Diameter = 2 × 395mm × 85% aspect ratio) + 20" = 46.4" Width = 395mm (15.5") The real size of a typical...

That's the inner wheel on a rear axle hub, so there is plenty access for common tools. A small angle grinder or Dremel, equipped with a cut-off wheel is what I would use, trying to split it in halves: make a cut right through that "R" (without damaging the stud and/or wheel). Apply plenty of...