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That's correct.

I suggest Dropbox or Google Drive.

I was waiting for someone to mention the oil supply- and return passages for the turbo. On the non-turbo block the casting bosses are there, but no holes drilled. See this thread...

FYI, referred post is almost 8 years old... and the poster was last seen here, 5 years ago. To rallynova: Welcome to SS and please feel free to post a want-add in the Parts-Wanted Section of our Classifieds.

:funny:

Looks more like a 3-pc lock ring wheel, doesn't it?

Exactly! I have restored/relined dozens of old, beaten shoes (had to...); some needed that treatment. It's soft steel, no big issue.

I bet that most of that info is already available in our own library, to be found in TM9-1819AC (Part 5 of 6) Chapter 18, Sections I to VI. Images and description are so much better than the more recent copies!

What you really need is this tool: http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=46 Or you can make your own (for a fraction of that cost) with a strip of sheet-metal and some foam rubber, or use a mil. sleeping foam pad - mat. Trust me; it works effortless and always!

After reading post #4, and up to #13, you will know how to get that shaft out. The left side plug - and the smaller, threaded through-hole underneath it - is there because the whole winch is made so that everything can be flipped, left to right. After doing so, the clutch housing would be on...

This thread, read post #11

See it here...

Not so sure... The "wind-up" you describe only occurs between T-case front- and rear output shafts, and from there down to the axle shafts and wheels. The OP said he had his truck pulled with a pickup, to get it to (slow) speed, to finally engage 5th. That means to me that at this point at...

The NSN is 2520-00-887-9504 (TM 9-2320-361-20P, Fig. 229, item #2)

I responded to your post #32.

No pics/drawings and I never did it myself - because I never had to. But this is really a no-brainer job: cut one exactly in half. Then mark a second one in the center, add 1" and cut along that line. Take the wider section and weld it back to one of your halves. Doesn't have to be a continuous...

I'm talking about the metal beadlocks. You don't want the rubber runflat inserts!

Well, get Wes to send you 8 of his FMTV beadlocks (he has them very cheap!), then make your own - exactly one inch wider than stock (by using two of them, cut and welded back together, along the center line.) That's how I would do it, and it only takes an angle grinder with cutting disc and a...

Me...? Mounted dozens of 395's on FMTV and HEMTT wheels, and quite a few 16.00's, on HET wheels. Also dozens of 37" HMMWV tires... I sure had all kind of issues but never a leaking O-ring seal. Never installed a NEW O-ring, either. (I simply can't buy new ones and have them here, next day...:))

Why so? A3 wheels are tubeless, and your tires, too.