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Unless the air supply came from a pres.reducing valve, a piston too large may react too violent, at 120 psi. Keep in mind this is not a large dog clutch like in the air-shift T-case... A longer cylinder would be more desirable because then you can install the return spring inside, and still...

I always reuse them; especially after seeing the poor quality of typical aftermarket parts... It's no big deal and I think I have posted about the how-to, before... just can't seem to find it now.:-?

Here are the specs and wear limits...

Stroke length is only 1/2". And even with a sound poppet spring & ball it doesn't take much more than 20 lbs to engage/disengage it. Add another 30 lbs if you included a return spring for a single action air cylinder. Which means that a tiny-shorty cylinder with 1"-piston @ 60psi is more than...

Wow, not a redneck- a genius really... someone who can drive his car on WS washer fluid...:p;-) I don't see why it wouldn't work. On my first, Gold-Comet powered Deuce I replaced the stock carb with a 2-barrel Rochester out of a 350 s.b. It worked for years and better than expected.

:ditto: .... Except where the boot gets squeezed too much, of course. In that case I have used thin (stainless) sheet-metal to form a cone and use as a shim. G.

Yes, it has been done, although it was on a Deuce. But both share the same aux. PTO, so I know it works well. You don't need a double acting cylinder; just modify one single action with a Ø1"- piston, by adding a coil spring strong enough to overcome the force of the poppet spring on the shift...

Keep cranking; it takes a good while to get all air out of the high-press side and have the injectors spraying again. Much easier on the starter if you removed the glow plugs and covered-shut the air intake, also.

I fully agree on that! Well, my two sets of M1008 wheels all measure 4-5/8". Maybe there are some out there which are different and the factory just used what they could get their hands on - coming from the lowest bidder, ya know...:) Thanks, but in this case +/- .001" would be precise enough...

WOW... and I thought only we here had that kind of "privilege"...!?:???:

Yes, that one, MTA Show. I just merged threads.

This thread... Done it 4 times now; never had an issue. Or a bad feeling, that it would be the weak link in the chain... But that's me. As they say: your mileage may vary...

Thread closed and will stay for now, for future reference.

That's not correct; go out and do some measuring... You will find that Dodge #60 rear hubs (at least two different designs) are at a little under Ø4-3/4", thus the wheel center holes have to have Ø4-3/4", or a tad over that. GM 8-lug wheel center (pilot)holes normally are Ø 4-5/8 or even a bit...

No, they won't fit - unless you could modify them by enlarging the pilot hole about 1/8". The Dodge axle hubs are larger in diameter than on the GM hubs. See this thread, posts #3 and #8.

I knew I had posted it somewhere.... found it here

Now moved to the M880 forum.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?115609-quot-How-to-get-a-HET-in-life-quot-M1070-Acquisition-thread https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?177227-M1070-Hauling

No, don't do that; it wouldn't move at all...! :-).... I know you meant to say front "drive shaft" or more correctly, "propeller shaft". And yes, that's okay.

TM 9-2320-361-20P, Fig. 231 and 237