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Should be 9-2815-237-34 for the engine.

Sounds like a bad regulator if the main connections test out good. Solid red, Bat+, should be voltage of both batteries, red with white stripe should be front battery voltage. Measure with engine off, red to red, black to ground.

That would only affect the driver side alternator and from battery. IIRC, the problem is with the passenger alternator and aft battery.

I do belive the charging issue is voltage to the regulator is wonky. Disconnect the 2 wire connection, measure voltage on each wire to ground key on engine off. Both should be both battery voltage sum..25 to 25.5.

The loose negative cable which runs to the back is for communication radio power. It may be an issue if another cable going to ground shares that stripped fastener.

With key on, engine off, measure voltage on the red wire in the 2 conductor block. Should be 24+ volts to ground. Same with the brown.

That is a lot of failed alternators. I would check all voltages at the alternator.

Steel because it is near the exhaust and under pressure.

There are 3 terminals on the back (ODE) side, B+, B- and tach. The tach terminal is smooth, B+ and B- are threaded and labeled. B+ to positive, B- to negative, leave tach alone, only uses on the driver side for diagnostic port. The threaded posts may have colored insulators. B- is on the...

If the connection is tight, leave it be. You mentioned you have a multimeter. Set it for Voltage DC and test the wires to the regulator, key on engine off. Should be front battery voltage for the drivers side alternator with the multimeter negative lead connected to ground. For passenger...

Could be an open fusible link. Either the 8mm red with white (back battery negative, should be 12.5 volts to ground), the regulator sense wire (should be 24+ volts to ground) or the 8mm red wire to the 24 volt bus (again, 24 volts). Measure voltage with batteries connected. Driver side...

Careful, that red with white stripe 8mm wire has 12.5 volts on it at all times. It is connected to the negative terminal of the back battery..which is also connected to the positive terminal of the front battery.

Yes, the two wire block going into a 27SI side is connected to the regulator. Red wire goes to the battery the alternator charges and is protected by a fusible link. The brown wire is the dash light, if it illuminates, it means the alternator has no output. Labeled terminal 1 in manuals. The...

That fried component is a radio frequency suppression capacitor set. Not needed for function. With key on engine off, you should measure around 12 volts from the negative terminal of the alternator to both regulator connections on the plastic 2 wire connector that plugs into the alternator...

You can try Blue Devil flush, it caused s temporary leak until corrosion sealed it up.

Solder bloom will clog a radiator.

Solder bloom, common problem with age. You could try cooling system flush but you can cause cooling system leaks. If you can find a radiator repair shop, they might be able to clean and resolder the tubes plus seal any leaks for about $500.

Do you have a multimeter? Know how to use it? See the sticky thread at the top on testing alternator in vehicle.

I rigged a remote control valve to bypass hot coolant around the heater core. The valve is electric motor driven, a DPDT illuminated switch on the dash adjusts it. The lights only illuminate at end stops.

I've been experimenting with the variable geometry turbocharger control system. These turbos use variable vacuum to set vane position. Vacuum is controlled by a 3 port solenoid valve used on Europe vehicles. This valve uses duty cycle from 30 to 70 percent which sets vane position from...