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FYI. I wrote a review at HD website, and Husky (actually Sanborn manufactured) replied, asked for pics, explanation and serial #s, then sent me another motor/compressor to me free of charge. It arrived yesterday. Squeaky wheel gets the grease......

I PM'd him. he has been very helpful. I didn't know how to attach this pic to a pm, so I told him I'd post it here, so he can reply. Im not sure if the right side "lug" is supposed to match the left side. But the transmission got stuck between gears by itself. engine off, shifter in a gear...

bad or good?

Is that lid complete with the forks?

I need to replace some top cover parts such as the shifting forks, and shift plate. Im having trouble finding them at the usual places. any leads?

You can retrofit a old International truck tank pretty easy. They are rectangle , but often will have a step built into it. they hold about 45-50 gallons. Cheap too.

on a diesel, yes or a vacuum pump like the older Ford F250's had. The newer ones had the power steering pump running both the steering and brake booster.

pull the fuel line off TO the secondary crank the engine and see if you have pressure there. if not, and you have pressure TO the booster pump, then the booster pump is the problem. I think maybe there is some kind of check valve or something within the secondary filters, so if you got fuel...

In the video, it acts like it had water in the fuel system. it doesn't take but a few ounces to screw things up. I'd open all the injector lines and pump a whole lot of fuel out of them, then close them down and try to fire it up again.

If its not the low air buzzer, try disconnecting the tank pump wire and try it again. Doubtful on the solenoid as it should just "click" real loud when you hit the start button or key, which ever you have.

use a 1/8 inch cutoff wheel one it in a half dozen places, when you weld them back up, it will pull/shrink the channel in a arc. then form a length of 1/8 to 3/16th flat bar that fits in the channel, bending it to shape like the hood, tack it ( half inch welds) in a dozen places.

I bought the fittings from Summit Racing out of NV for under 75$ . I reused to mushroom cap and u clamp to remove it from the side and access the panel.

Probably the best option we have is to do away with the whole airpack system and go straight hydraulic power brake system from a truck like a F750 ? or something like that.

fish plate the areas (front the inside)where it breaks. You may have to either spot weld or small plug welds on the fish plate, unless you are able to get the weld on the inside. run the weld parallel long ways, not across the repair. Add a piece of flat bar on the channel bracing and skip weld...

maybe you could "snorkel" your air intake to cab top height. I don't have a clue what setup you got without a pic.

what are your readings EGT/Boost with the stock filter?

I wonder why Boyce or someone who builds and sells MV's hasn't done something about the weakest link in the whole truck.....air over hyd.

Are your distributor advance weights/springs in good working order? sounds like maybe its not advancing. you could use a timing light and watch it advance on the harmonic balancer as you rev up the engine.

I burn/leak 2 quarts in about 4-500 miles I guess. The key is to keep the oil topped off, a eye on the EGT, and work the piss out of it. They don't make good "daily drivers" IMHO, Subaru's do.

without a tach, you'll never know if you are reaching the redline under load. If you can get 3200 rpms in fifth, thats almost as fast as it goes. I think 3200-3600 is redline depending on Manufacture. (better check before detonation) Often a engine cannot reach rated rpm "under driving...