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when you order your control valves, make sure they are "power beyond" capable, then you can operate different things from the same power source without "switching anything. I operate my 4 way snow plow with one joy stick control, then beyond that I have a control valve for the dump bed.

I have a 12vdc clutch belt driven pump for my snow plow and dump bed on my ford. surplus center.com sells them and has the flow/psi specs .

fire wooding a couple miles away from my house.

my husky did too.

I think the inlet is the critical hose position as to Not bypass the thermostat. the return shouldn't matter. My engine warms up, heater blows warm and the return is in a different spot. my block heater is in the water pump housing as recommended by the supplier.

the one MG2936 pictured is widely used on stationary engines everywhere. If I were concerned about extreme cold, I would have paid the extra $$$ and got that type. Where Im at , it doesn't get below -10F but once in a while.

its on the water pump where you can see I had to heat it up to remove it. be careful to only buy the "short" one so it doesn't hit the housing inside.

I'd stay away from cutting into the lower radiator hose. Its a PITA to get on and off too. I use the small block heater that fits into the 3/4 inch pipe plug at the water pump. I live in northern Idaho, and it has worked fine for me as I drive mine year round.

DT466.

Ive only been in low range to test it in my truck. You should be able to pull a steep road in 1/H. I'd get a pyrometer before messing with the fuel even though you're no turbo.

Its a hand operated vacuum pump with a gauge on it. its used to check vacuum lines and EGR valves on cars etc. they cost about 40$.

that filter is shot. the exhaust looks good. Mine has a little more black smoke when I blip the throttle because my fuel is turned up a little. The hose connection is for the compressor intake to keep water out of it if you go into deep creek crossings. you can probably test it by hooking up a...

m Mine is 1" ID.

Boyce in Utah has/builds trucks.

Sounds good....its a "poor man's" pre lube oil pump.

So if the kit filters have a anti drawback valve, I assume you cant drain them down before replacing them. Do they make a big mess like the original filter, or is it mounted and relocated to replace them from under the housing like a tractor?

You stated your truck will reach 2500 rpms. Is that while sitting in the driveway, or running down the road in each gear before shifting? When you are up to 45mph, how many rpms are you running? The extra weight will make it more sluggish, but you should be able to get to speed on flat ground...

Gringletaube is correct. On our powerhouse generator oil tub, it originally was sealed with a yellow shellac substance like they coated electrical connections. the tub was 12' in diameter. when we overhauled it (it leaked a lot for years) we used a locktite brand anaerobic sealant. Im pretty...

Why does the spin on kits bring up the oil pressure faster?

the white jell was probably dissolved aluminum from ethanol and water. https://www.forconstructionpros.com/equipment/fleet-maintenance/article/11122472/the-risks-of-e15-fuel-blends-are-real