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Yes, it is different material. The one you have is all metal....don't ask what kind, I just know it is thin and will melt fast. The new style one has the same steel banjos but between them it is a flexible tube. They were prone to cracking hence the part revision

Clint, I saw some of the gaskets were shrunk up. A tip for those NOS hard, shrunk gaskets is to soak them in really hot tap water or boiled water. It will make them grow to their proper size and be pliable again. They will also seal better because the material compresses again. Looks good!

Depending on how big the crack is, silver solder might work well. If it is cracked at the line/fitting joint, another option would be to finish the break, put fuel resistant line on it and clamp the hose. IIRC, the return manifold was the same from 1985 when it was introduced to 1998 when it...

Doesn't matter if it is a SOLO or a regular single or double disc. There is a stack up of the FW, clutch and PP. The housing needs to be able to accept that stack up, the clutch forks and lever to be able to release the clutch as needed to fully disengage the clutch. There are a ton of different...

That is the return from the injectors. Very little fuel is returned through that line, but, it does dump into the line from the lift pump to the filter, so there can be upwards of 35 psi in the line, I have repaired them in the field and the repair held for as long as I knew the rig was on...

I tried, got SCM35A2 s pic to full size, Dmetalmiki needs to edit his from his end I think

Self adjusting, if uncaged will need to be removed and re caged on a press. There are a ton of things to consider when matching things. The flywheel thickness, housing depth, arm length, pedal throw, ratio of the pedal throw. If it were me, i'd ditch the SOLO and go with a normal single plate...

Oops!

We need a bigger pic! Mik, repost it with a large image!

You have then in PDF, maybe print them? I have printed a few TMs....quite a few, up to 250 pgs. For the front and back "hard" paper, I used a file folder and cut it to size. The rest were double sided printed off of my puter. I'll still look. Maybe this weekend.

Let me look. It will be a few days...or more. Was there today, might go back on Sat or Sun.

Let me look and see if there are any there

Look at the fuel in the tank, should be clear/light colored. If it is dark, maybe oil in the fuel, red tint, ATF. How cold is it there? NHC will smoke white when very cold, Idling/not working the NHC is like the LDT, they will smoke and smell of oil if not worked. The engine sounds good though...

No, but they are still available. What do you need?

It was just brought to my attention that I did not update this to let people know what fixed the pig! I do believe that it was air in the system as NDT said. I ended up using an oil can filled with brake fluid and reverse power bled the system from the wheel cylinders back up to the MC. Messy...

Could be incorrect heads or worn out. Injector issues will not smell of oil.

Aw, Come on man! Just bustin' yer chops!

Man, whoever was working on that was MESSY! Look at the oil and grubby beater prints on it, I WOULD NOT take it back to that guy! :ROFLMAO:

VERY cool mike! You should get out of the glass business and switch to being a mechanic! Climbing up and down on that kilt ya, huh? Congrats buddy!

Smoke leaking from the tailpipe yet? My D-max project made .....well, no smoke, still runs the same. Me thinks a "tuner" that was on it issue or a $800 sensor.