Search results

looks like if a disconnect was on that single ground at the bottom... it would disconnect everything??

that eliminates one potential issue. Glad you got her running

sounds like adding a timer into the circuit might be a way around that..... or just a 2 pole toggle (and solenoids) to turn off equalizer and on pulser?

yeah have had same wonder.... yet then again the spendier versions of Solar Pulse Tech units I believe also had a balancer in them. And the more spendier also were Solar "charge" controllers and not just enough solar to run the pulse system

updated the attachments above.

hmmm.... interesting... looks like it is not alt. temperature like your pointing out.. but ambiant. Here is the temp compensation description on the 100amp dual volt from PDF on that model "..N3135* regulator used with these units also is negative temperature compensated. Setpoints are 28.0...

would that be the design intent on our Neihoff's alts though? Neihoff's are used in large rigs (military, coaches etc.) and none of them keep the battery in same compartment as the alt.

thanks... was curious about sensor. I didn't remember a sensor wire. Few folk who used the 200amp hummer alt have put the regulator off on a bracket because their orientation on the body hits a bracket or the block... I forget which.... thought that mayyy be an issue with temp sensing but...

yep... WET= Lead Acid. It might be sealed Lead acid (no caps) but not AGM

side question.... how do these cool?? does the rear? fan push air thru the alt.... or does it suck cool air from front and blow the heated air out thru the fan at back of alt. ? Granted Im assuming that is a fan at the rear that shroud is protecting from... . for all I know its just a heat...

with a threaded coupler you would not need a post... you would bolt into the coupler to hold your cable. https://belmetric.com/steel-coarse-din-6334-3x-dia-hex-coupler-standoff-nut/?sku=NLONG4X12CLZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxN_Hgcas-wIVCo_ICh0GYgdKEAQYByABEgJVnfD_BwE

If I recall right both the 100amp FMTV and the 200amp Hummer alts folk have used are temperature compensating alternators? Where is the temp sensor? Is it in the regulator and it just senses it by the temp via contact to the alt body it bolts too orrr?

K11 is a solenoid on the Power Distribution panel correct? if so.. how are you determining you have no power to K11?- by sound of it not clicking?? or did you measure voltage there?

ahhh ok.. yeah I recall that. Thought they were all suppose to have been removed by miliary already... guess not.

All good suggestions. What came to my mind was Brazing might be the key here but ya'll know more than I. This is what hit me: > put a nut on what is there then tig/braze that in place thru the center. > grind the top of nut to weld another on top on outside edges. > then tig/braze a tall nut...

Wafer fuse?

what kind of break? as in did stud break off with part of the stud still there.. orrr??

agree the initial intent was to compensate for additional load. Was under impression their addition also factored into the shock decisions. Could be (likely am) wrong though.

discussion seems there seems to point out that the reason the 2.5? inch shock he ordered works is because of the air bags theoretically acting as additional load/shock benefit. The other ones King made (but stopped?) for these trucks were larger diameter pistons??.. 3 or 3.5 if recall right.

was my understanding correct that in your and the other diagram the bottom battery is the 12v load battery?